Two Ottolenghi Veg Dishes

We are eating more and more vegetarian main courses. I guess it is a leftover from our trip to India where we ate such excellent vegetables.

We had planned to make Kosheri, and had forgotten about it until Robert reminded us that there was a recipe for it in Ottolenghi The Cookbook. This is a dish that is a staple of Egyptian cooking and of Indian cooking where it is called: kitchari. I really liked the dish with it Tangy Tomato Sauce. We will definitely do this again.

It is sweet and fragrant. I especially liked the taste of the cinnamon. Because it is made with rice and broken pasta it reminded me of an extremely exotic rendition of Rice-a-Roni that well advertised San Francisco Treat. Incidentally in the 20 years I lived in San Francisco, I never was served Rice-a-Roni or saw it on restaurant menu!

We stared with Fennel and Feta Salad with Pomegranate and Sumac from the same cookbook: Ottolenghi the Cookbook. This salad was less of a success. The problem was the way I cut the fennel. The pieces were too large. If we make the salad again we cut the fennel in smaller pieces. Because this recipe is from an English Cookbook, maybe the English Fennels are smaller than our California variety.

Fennel and feta salad with pomegranate and sumac

Ottolenghi the cookbook

This salad is a little festival in itself. The fennel and tarragon, with their echoing flavours, form a solid base on which stronger colours and flavours - pomegranate, feta, sumac - manifest themselves without overwhelming the whole salad. It is distinctly fresh and goes well with roast meats and grilled fish. Crusty bread is almost obligatory to soak .up the juices from the plate.

Try substituting dried cranberries or sour cherries for the pomegranate. The fennel for this salad should be the round and bulky variety. It is crisper and sweeter than the long one.

serves 4

1/2 pomegranate

2 medium fennel heads

1/2 tbsp olive oil

2 tsp sumac, plus extra to garnish

juice of 1 lemon

4 tbsp tarragon leaves

2 tbsp roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley

70g Greek feta cheese, sliced

salt and black pepper

1.    Start by releasing the pomegranate seeds. The best way to do this is to halve the pomegranate along its 'belly' (you only need half a pomegranate here), then hold the half firmly in your hand with the seeds facing your palm. Over a large bowl, start bashing the back  of the fruit with a wooden spoon. Don't hit too hard or you'll bruise "the seeds and break the skin. Magically, the seeds will just fall out. Pick out any white skin that falls in.

2.    Remove the leaves of the fennel, keeping a few to garnish later, and trim the base, making sure you leave enough of it still attached to hold the slices together. Slice very thinly lengthwise (a mandolin would come in handy here).

3.    In a bowl, mix the olive oil, sumac, lemon juice, herbs and some salt and pepper. Add the fennel and toss well. Taste for seasoning but remember, the feta will add saltiness.

4.    Layer the fennel, then the feta and then the pomegranate seeds in individual serving dishes. Garnish with fennel leaves, sprinkle over some sumac and serve immediately.

Kosheri

Ottolenghi the Cookbook

serves 4

300g green lentils

200g basmati rice

40g unsalted butter

50g vermicelli noodles, broken into 4cm pieces

400ml chicken stock or water

½ tsp grated nutmeg

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp black pepper

4 tbsp olive oil

2 white onions, halved and thinly sliced

Spicy tomato sauce

4 tbsp olive oil

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 hot red chillies, seeded and finely diced

8 ripe tomatoes, chopped ((tinned are fine)

370ml water

4 tbsp cider vinegar

3 tsp salt

2 tsp ground cumin

20g coriander leaves, chopped

This lentil and rice dish is one of the most popular in Egypt, sold hot by street vendors and specialist restaurants. It is not too far removed from the Indian kitchari, ancestor to the British kedgeree. Usually in Egypt it is served with a spicy tomato sauce, but it's also delicious with cucumber, tomato and yoghurt salad.

Start with the sauce. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan, add the garlic and chillies and fry for 2 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes, water, vinegar, salt and cumin. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, until slightly thickened. Remove the sauce from the heat, stir in the coriander and then taste. See if you want to add any salt, pepper or extra coriander. Keep hot or leave to cool; both ways will work with the hot kosheri. Just remember to adjust the seasoning again when cold. , 

To make the kosheri, place the lentils in a large sieve and wash them under a cold running tap. Transfer to a large saucepan, cover with plenty of cold water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 25 minutes. The lentils should be tender but far from mushy. Drain in a colander and leave to one side.

In a large bowl, cover the rice with cold water, wash and then drain well. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the raw vermicelli, stir, and continue frying and stirring until the vermicelli turns golden brown. Add the drained rice and mix well until it is coated in the butter. Now add the stock or water, nutmeg, cinnamon, salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, cover and then reduce the heat to a minimum and simmer for 12 minutes. Turn off the heat, remove the lid, cover the pan with a clean tea towel and put the lid back on. Leave like that for about 5 minutes; this helps make the rice light and fluffy.

Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, add the onions and saute over a medium heat for about 20 minutes, until dark brown. Transfer to kitchen paper to drain.

To serve, lightly break up the rice with a fork and then add the lentils and most of the onions, reserving a few for garnish. Taste for seasoning and adjust accordingly. Pile the rice high on a serving platter and top with the remaining onions. Serve hot, with the tomato sauce.