Miso Leeks With White Beans
New York Times
In this reinterpretation of the classic French dish leeks vinaigrette, tender braised leeks are bathed in a punchy miso vinaigrette, tossed with creamy white beans then served with an oozy soft egg for an easy, comforting midweek meal. Steady, gentle heat is the key to achieving the rich, jamlike leeks, coaxing out their sweetness while ensuring that they stay silky. The miso leeks can also be eaten in other ways — on a slice of toast, stirred through warm potatoes or pasta, or tossed with French lentils and peppery arugula for a simple salad. Make sure you use the whole leek. Many recipes recommend the white part only, but the green parts, while slightly tougher with a stronger flavor, can also be cooked and tenderized, especially in recipes where they are braised. The miso leeks improve over time and can be prepared up to 3 days ahead and stored in the fridge.
INGREDIENTS
Yield:4 servings (about 4 heaping cups)
FOR THE LEEKS
2 large leeks (about 1 pound), roots and wrinkled tops trimmed, stalks halved lengthwise, white and green parts thinly sliced
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 fresh thyme sprigs
4 eggs
2 (14-ounce) cans white beans, such as cannellini or butter, drained
Handful tarragon or parsley leaves, roughly chopped, to serve
Toasted bread (optional), for serving
FOR THE MISO VINAIGRETTE
4 teaspoons white miso paste
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 garlic clove, grated
2 teaspoons red-wine vinegar
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
PREPARATION
1. Prepare the leeks: Place the sliced leeks into a colander and rinse them well, rubbing to loosen any dirt. Rinse them again and drain well. (There is no need to dry them, as the residual water is useful in cooking the leeks.)
2. Heat a large Dutch oven or skillet on medium-high for 1 to 2 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of olive oil, along with the leeks. Season generously with salt and black pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid cooks off and leeks start to stick to the pan, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic and thyme. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
3. Meanwhile, bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high. Add the eggs and continue to cook over medium-high for 7 minutes. (Make sure you set a timer.) Set up an ice bath. Using a spider ladle or slotted spoon, remove the eggs from the water and immediately add them to the ice bath. Cool for 3 to 4 minutes, then peel and set aside.
4. Make the vinaigrette: In a large bowl, whisk together the miso paste, Dijon mustard, garlic, vinegar and olive oil.
5. Uncover the leeks — they will have reduced into a silky, jammy consistency. Discard the thyme, transfer the leeks to the bowl and stir to coat in the miso vinaigrette.
6. Stir in the white beans and leave to cool for a few minutes. Add about ¾ of the tarragon or parsley leaves and toss gently to combine.
7. Divide the leeks and beans among bowls and drizzle each with olive oil. Top with a halved jammy egg and finish with the remaining herbs. Serve with toast, if desired.
Roasted Cauliflower and Arugula Salad
New York Times
In this hearty, colorful salad, cauliflower florets, slivers of red onion and briny capers are coated with spices and roasted until the florets turn soft and sweet, and the onions and capers get browned and crisp. Everything is tossed with tangy-sweet raisins (or your favorite dried fruit), more red onion that’s been quick-pickled in lime juice, a green mound of arugula and parsley leaves. It’s a bright, satisfying salad that works as a substantial side dish or a light main course, either rounded out with crusty bread or served on top of a bed of rice, farro or other grains.
INGREDIENTS
Yield:4 servings
1 large cauliflower (2½ to 3 pounds), cut into 1-inch florets
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1½ teaspoons fine sea or table salt, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon garam masala
¼ teaspoon ground cayenne
1 large red onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced into half moons
3 tablespoons drained capers
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
⅓ cup golden raisins (or substitute another dried fruit, such as cranberries, diced apricots or dates)
Boiling water, as needed
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Freshly ground black pepper, as needed
1 quart (4 ounces) arugula
1 cup Italian parsley leaves
PREPARATION
1. Heat oven to 425 degrees. On a rimmed sheet pan, toss cauliflower with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, garam masala and cayenne. Spread out the florets and roast for 15 minutes.
2. Put about two-thirds of the sliced red onion, the capers, cumin seeds and a pinch of salt into a small bowl; drizzle with a little olive oil. Add mixture to the cauliflower and toss well. Roast for another 25 to 28 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are browned and tender. Transfer to a wire rack to cool slightly. Taste a cauliflower floret and add more salt if needed.
3. While the cauliflower is roasting, place the raisins in a small heatproof bowl (you can use the same bowl you used for the onions) and top with enough boiling water to cover. Let soak until they are soft (up to 15 minutes if your raisins were rock hard to start with). Drain well and return to the bowl.
4. Add remaining onion to the raisins. Toss with 1 tablespoon lime juice and a large pinch of salt.
5. In a small bowl, whisk together remaining 2 tablespoons lime juice, 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt and as much black pepper as you like. Whisk until emulsified, then taste and add more salt if needed.
6. When ready to serve, in a large salad bowl, toss together the arugula, parsley leaves, slightly cooled cauliflower mixture, pickled raisin and red onion mixture, and half of the lime dressing. Toss well, adding more dressing to taste.
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Pork and Pasta, how wonderful a combination. We love Pasta and this recipe for One-Pot Braised Pork Ragù was a great one! I love the idea of chunky meat sauces. This was a good and easy dinner. Try it!
One-Pot Braised Pork Ragù
New York Times
This vegetable-heavy baked ragù is a great way to stretch one pound of meat into a hearty pasta sauce. There’s only about 15 minutes of active work; the oven does the rest. Pork shoulder (also known as picnic shoulder) is a relatively inexpensive cut of pork that takes well to braising, which yields super flavorful and tender meat. Cubing it into small pieces helps it soften faster, while a little heavy cream helps tenderize the meat as it cooks. The versatile ragù can be served over pasta or polenta, and leftovers easily turn into craveable sandwiches the next day. The recipe is easily doubled and freezes extremely well, if you’d like to cook once and eat twice.
Yield:4 servings
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound pork shoulder, cut into ½-inch cubes
Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper
3 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped (1½ cups)
1 medium yellow onion, diced into small pieces (1½ cups)
5 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes
1 fresh rosemary sprig
2 fresh basil sprigs, plus chopped leaves for garnish
¼ cup heavy cream
Cooked pasta or polenta, for serving
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
PREPARATION
Heat oven to 450 degrees.
1. In a large Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium. Add half of the pork to the pot and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 3 minutes; using a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer the pork to a plate. Repeat with the remaining pork and season with salt and pepper.
2. Reduce heat to medium-low and add carrots, onions and 1 tablespoon of the oil. Season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in garlic, then add tomato paste and the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and cook, stirring continuously, until lightly caramelized, 3 minutes.
3. Add pork and any accumulated juices, then the tomatoes and their juices, crushing the tomatoes with your hands as you add them. Stir in the rosemary, basil sprigs, cream and 2 cups of water; season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over high, cover and bake until pork is tender and sauce is thickened, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Discard rosemary and basil sprigs.
4. Serve pork ragù over pasta or polenta. Top with some cheese and chopped basil.
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| A Thing of Beauty |
Brown-Butter Orzo with Butternut Squash
New York Times
In this autumnal one-pot meal, rice-shaped orzo is cooked with stock and butternut squash until it’s tender and creamy, a little like risotto but without as much stirring. Brown butter, lemon zest and sage add depth of flavor, while red-pepper flakes give this zip and heat. An optional dollop of ricotta intensifies the creaminess but feel free to skip it for a lighter dish. This recipe also works well as a hearty side for roasted meats and fish.
INGREDIENTS
Yield:4 servings
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
¾ cup thinly sliced shallots (2 to 3), or use onion or leek
1 small (2-pound) butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into ¾-inch cubes (3 cups)
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage leaves, or 2 teaspoons chopped rosemary or marjoram, plus more for serving if you like
1 teaspoon fine sea salt or table salt, plus more as needed
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for serving
¼ teaspoon red-pepper flakes, plus more for serving
3 cups vegetable stock or chicken stock
1½ cup uncooked orzo
1 lemon, zested and halved
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan, plus more for serving
½ cup whole-milk ricotta (optional)
PREPARATION
1. In a medium Dutch oven, or a large (12-inch) skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the foam subsides, the milk solids turn golden brown and it smells nutty and toasty, 3 to 4 minutes. (Watch carefully to see that it doesn’t burn.)
2. Stir in shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, about 2 minutes. Add squash, sage, a large pinch of salt, the ¼ teaspoon black pepper and the ¼ teaspoon red-pepper flakes, and cook until squash is golden at the edges and begins to soften, 12 to 17 minutes.
3. Add stock and bring to a simmer. Stir in orzo, lemon zest and the 1 teaspoon salt. Cover the pan and simmer over medium-low heat until orzo is just tender and most of the liquid is absorbed, 14 to 18 minutes, stirring once or twice. If the pan dries out before the orzo and squash are tender, add a splash or two of water.
4. Remove pan from heat and stir in Parmesan. Taste and add more salt if needed, and a squeeze of lemon juice if the dish needs brightness. Dollop with ricotta if using, and sprinkle with more grated Parmesan and black pepper just before serving, garnishing the top with more red-pepper flakes and sage.
Ottolenghi - Simple
Serves four as a starter or side
1 large celery root, hairy roots discarded (no need to trim) unpeeled but scrubbed clean (2½ Ib/1.2kg)
3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve
1½ tsp coriander seeds, lightly crushed
flaked sea salt
1 lemon, cut into wedges, to serve
I've managed to achieve the seemingly impossible here, of taking a recipe from my NOPI cookbook (full of recipes that would not make it into Ottolenghi SIMPLE) and actually making it more complicated for Ottolenghi SIMPLE. In NOPI, the celery root is roasted whole as it is, for 3 hours, brushed with oil and sprinkled with salt. The results are so delicious and so straightforward that I've taken the liberty of adding one more twist in the form of the coriander seeds. The taste is even more wonderful than before. I like to eat it as it is as a starter, cut into wedges and served with a squeeze of lemon or a dollop of crème fraîche, but you can also serve it as a side to a pork chop or steak.
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
2. Pierce the celery root with a small sharp knife all over, about20 times. Place the celery root in a baking dish and rub generously with the oil, coriander seeds, and 2 tsp flaked salt. Roast for 2½2-3 hours, basting every 30 minutes until the celery root is soft all the way through and golden brown on the outside.
3. Cut into wedges and serve with a lemon wedge, a sprinkle of salt, and a drizzle of olive oil.
