Creamed Morels on Brioche

Morels have finally arrived at the Hollywood Farmer’’s Market. We purchased some morels and used a recipe from Sunday Supper at Lucques. We toasted brioche from Proof Bakery and poured the mushroom ragout over the crisp toast. This dish is as good as it gets.

ragout of morels with creme fraiche, soft herbs, and toasted brioche – Sunday Supper at Lucques

Suzanne Goin

1         tablespoon tarragon leaves

1         tablespoon chervil sprigs

2         tablespoons flat-leaf parsley leaves

2         tablespoons 1/2-inch-snipped chives

^¾            pound fresh morels, stems trimmed and cleaned

5          tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1         teaspoon thyme leaves

½         cup sliced shallots

1         cup mushroom, vegetable, or chicken broth

Three 3/4-inch-thick slices brioche

½         cup heavy cream

6         tablespoons cremp fraiche

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Morels are to spring what tomatoes are to summer: they epitomize the season. Their spongy texture and funny pine-cone shape give these wild mushrooms unmistakable personality. In order not to mask their delicious earthy flavor, morels are best when prepared simply. In a French kitchen, morels are often cooked with cream. And as with so many traditional pairings, when you taste the combination you understand why it's a classic. Here the morel ragout is bound with a little cream, spooned over toasted slices of brioche, and topped with dollops of creme fraiche. The soft herbs are left whole; when you bite into them you get a big burst of flavor.

Toss the tarragon, chervil, parsley leaves, and chives together in a small bowl and set aside, covered with a damp paper towel in the refrigerator. If the morels are large, cut them in half lengthwise.

Heat a large saute pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons but­ter, and when it foams, scatter the morels into the pan, being careful not to over­crowd them. Saute 3 to 4 minutes, stirring often. Turn down the heat to medium, and add the thyme, % teaspoon kosher salt, and a few grindings of pepper. Let the mushrooms cook another 6 to 8 minutes, until they're crispy on the outside yet still tender. (The amount of cooking time really depends on the mushrooms; some give off more water than others, which will require a longer cooking time in order for the water to evaporate and the morels to crisp.)

Add 1 tablespoon butter, and stir in the shallots. Cook about 2 minutes, until the shallots are translucent and tender. Turn the heat up to high, add the broth, and reduce by half. Immediately remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, lightly butter the brioche on both sides. Heat a large cast-iron pan over medium-high heat, and toast the slices on both sides until golden brown.

Cut the brioche slices in half on the diagonal, and place them on a platter.

When the brioche is ready, return the mushrooms to medium heat for a minute or two. Swirl in the cream, and taste for seasoning. Spoon the morels over and around the toasts—not completely covering the bread, and spilling onto the platter.

Dollop each toast with creme fraiche and scatter the herbs over the top.