Moroccan Night

Billy was travelling and we wanted to make sure that Kevin was not lonely so we invited him over for dinner. We also invited Tim. We made a fantastic soup from the new Paula Wolfert Cookbook: The Foods of Morocco, Butternut Squash And Tomato Soup. It was thick, and rich and spicy. You control the heat by the amount of harrisa that you add. The sprinkling of the smoked Gouda Cheese gives it a multi-layered taste. It was a big hit.

We followed that with a Beef Tagine With Roasted Cauliflower from the same cookbook. It was great. Nate at McCall’s told us a great chef’s trick when braising short-ribs. We would have cut the ribs apart into 2 inch chunks before braising. He suggested not cutting the meat and braising the entire short rib. That way the meat doesn’t fall off the bone. Good trick. We served it with couscous from Tunisia. The Tangine was wonderful.

We had a Savory Tart from Proof Bakery and also purchased a great Cake from them for dessert.

We spent lots of the dinnertime video conferencing with Billy in Thailand. It is amazing that you can have a virtual guest. The good news is they don’t drink a lot of your wine.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND TOMATO SOUP

The Foods of Morocco

Paula Wolfert

Here is a family favorite inspired by the winter soups prepared in the Rif Mountains, soups that keep both body and soul warm, as Fatima, our housekeeper, liked to say.

1        yellow onion, coarsely chopped (l-3/4 cups)

Coarse salt

1-1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 pounds butternut, kabocha, or calabaza squash, halved, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-1/2 inch chunks (about 6 cups)

2        tablespoons tomato paste

1 teaspoon La Kama Spice Mixture

½ cup heavy cream or creme frache'

¼ pound shredded or crumbled aged goat cheese or goat gouda

1 teaspoon or more to taste harissa paste (see Sources)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Toss the onion with 1 teaspoon coarse salt and the oil in a medium casserole, preferably earthenware or enameled cast iron, cover, and steam over medium-low heat until the onion is soft, about 10 minutes.

Add the squash, cover with a sheet of parchment paper and a lid, and steam for 20 minutes.

Add the Tomato paste, spices, and 4 cups hot water and bring to-a boil, then cook at a simmer until the squash is tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Transfer the soup in batches to a blender and puree until smooth; add the cream, three-quarters of the cheese, and the harissa to the last batch of soup and puree until velvety.

Return the soup to the pot and season with salt and pepper to taste. Ladle the soup into warm bowl and top each portion with a light sprinkling of the remaining cheese.

La Kama Spice Mixture

1 teaspoon each ground ginger and ground tumeric

1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

½ teaspoon ground cinnanmon

½ teaspoon cubeb pepper (optional)

A good pinch of grated nutmeg

Mix all together

Beef Tagine With Roasted Cauliflower

The Foods of Morocco

Paula Wolfert

Beef tagines can be very good indeed. After hours of slow simmering, the meat comes out buttery and soft, and the sauce acquires excellent flavor. The spicing in this dish follows the Marrakech style, while the particular preliminary browning of the meat is Tetuanese.

Serves 4 to 6

ROBUST MEAT TAGINES

These highly aromatic tagines, flavored with paprika and cumin, are sturdy dishes, nourishing and thick, especially good in winter—satisfying to weary travelers and men who have done hard physical work, or to folk who have just come off the ski slopes an hour outside Marrakech. Though they are not among the most elegant of dishes, these hearty stews are truly toothsome.

Coarse salt

½      teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼      teaspoon ground turmeric

5      tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3      pounds beef short ribs or 2 pounds bone-in beef shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1- to l!4-inch chunks

1      teaspoon sweet paprika

½      teaspoon ground ginger

½      teaspoon ground cumin, preferably Moroccan

1      medium white or red onion, grated

2      tablespoons finely chopped cilantro

2      tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

One 2-pound cauliflower

Pinch of red pepper flakes or cayenne, or to taste

12 ounces Roma (plum) tomatoes, peeled, halved, seeded, and chopped

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Heat a tagine, preferably flameware, set on a heat diffuser over medium-low heat until warm. Mix 1 teaspoon salt, the pepper, and turmeric with 1-1/2 tablespoons of the olive oil and add to the warm pan.

Add the beef and saute gently until golden on all sides. Place a crumpled piece of parchment directly over the meat, cover tightly, and cook for 15 minutes, without lifting the cover. (The meat will cook in its own juices, drawn out by the salt over low heat; do not add water.)

Add the paprika, ginger, cumin, grated onion, half of the herbs, and lli cup water. Cover again with the parchment paper and the lid, and simmer gently for 3 hours, until the meat is very tender and has fallen off the bones.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400°F.

Cut the cauliflower in half, then cut each half lengthwise into ½ inch-thick slices. Lightly brush a jelly-roll pan with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Mix the remaining 'A tablespoon oil with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a pinch of red pepper flakes and gently toss with the cauliflower. Spread the cauliflower out in one layer on the pan and roast for 15 minutes. Use a spatula to turn the slices over and roast for another 15 minutes, or until lightly caramelized. Remove from the oven, cover loosely with paper towels or a kitchen towel, and set aside.

Remove the meat from the tagine and remove and discard the bones. Return the meat to the tagine and lightly brown in the fatty juices. Tilt the pan and spoon off and discard the excess fat. If necessary, add a few tablespoons water to make a smooth sauce.

Scatter the cauliflower, tomatoes, and the remaining chopped herbs over the beef. Bring to a boil to reheat. Correct the seasoning with salt, black pepper, red pepper flakes, and the lemon juice, and serve at once.