Friday, October 17, 2008
Pomegranate and Friends
Wine:
Gin an Tonic (Jill of course)
Bourgogne 2007 Rose de Pinot Noir
Chateau de La Liquiere 2005 Vielles Vignes
Limoncino Liqueur
Jill and Susan flew in from Santa Fe to attend a conference at the LA Country Art Museum on Indonesian Textiles. We joined them for the day along with our neighbor Shelley. It was very informative. We learned a lot about the various ways textiles are used to symbolize status, religion, location, etc.
We decided to cook dinner for them. We started with Drinks, Cheese and the delicious Truffle Honey on the deck.
For the first course we had Persimmon and Pomegranate Salad with Arugula and Hazelnuts. Our neighbor Kazue had surprised us by dropping off some Persimmons. Every year in the fall, when both pomegranates and Persimmons come in, we always make a salad with them. For some reason we had never followed the recipe from Sunday Supper at Lucques. This time we did and it was a MAJOR revelation to us. In the past, when I peeled pomegranates I tried various techniques to extract the seeds. This book has the secret! It was simple, and the juice is used for the salad dressing. I have included Suzanne’s full story. Rather than pressing the fruit with my fingers and rolled it on the counter top pressing down hard. It was like magic, easy to extract the liquid and when I tore open the fruit the seeds just fell out! What a discovery!
For the main course we decided to make a again a favorite: Roast Chicken with Preserved Lemons Adapted from Laurent Tourondel. We have made this many times, a sure winner! You can get the recipe from our blog entry of Jan. 23, 2008. Just click the date to get it.
For dessert we made Date Bars from the City Cuisine Cookbook. These are a favorite! They work for both dessert and breakfast the following days. They can also be frozen.
We followed with chilled Limoncino Liqueur (thanks Dennis).
It was great spending the weekend with Jill and Susan and hope they return soon!
Pomegranates
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When I was a kid, we used to eat pomegranates with a needle, carefully extracting each tiny kernel out of its hard red skin. Like persimmons, they grew in my neighborhood, dangling off scraggly, leaf-barren trees. Their flavor is intense—the seed adds a subtle bitter counterpoint to the astringent yet sweet juice. Pomegran¬ate juice can be used in salad dressings as a bright alter¬native to vinegar or lemon juice. A pomegranate vinaigrette is particularly delicious with a salad of arugula, persimmons, and pomegranates. When you get in the habit of using pomegranates, you'll find they're very versatile. Their sweet crunch goes well with many foods, and this time of year I find myself scattering the seeds over salads, antipastos, and even grilled fish. Pomegranate molasses, available in Middle Eastern mar¬kets, is a deep burgundy condiment made from concen¬trated pomegranate juice and sugar. Used sparingly, the sweet-sour syrup is an exotic addition to pomegranate salsas and is also intriguing with braised meats.
Pomegranates aren't an instant-gratification fruit; they take a little work. To juice a pomegranate, use your thumbs to press and soften the skin all the way around the entire fruit. Next, insert a paring knife halfway into the side of the pomegranate to make a small hole. Hold the fruit over a bowl with the hole facing down, and squeeze firmly to extract the juice, which will come run¬ning out. To take out the seeds, it's best not to cut the fruit in half or you'll lose precious seeds and juices. Instead, insert a chef's knife about an inch into the top of the pomegranate, and turn the knife slightly to crack the fruit open. Pull the pomegranate apart with your hands, separating it into naturally occurring sections. Then pick the seeds out with your fingers.
Pomegranates are in season starting in early fall and ending in early winter. Look for pomegranates that are heavy in your hand and have supple, not-too-dry skin.
Persimmon and Pomegranate Salad with Arugula and Hazelnuts
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This is one of those salads that I can't stop eating once I start. It's thirst-quenching, crunchy, and downright addictive. The juice from the pomegranate binds with the olive and hazelnut oils to make a bright, acidic dressing for the pep¬pery arugula and sweet persimmons. Juicing your own pomegranates is easy, but if you're not careful, it can result in some embarrassing mishaps. One night at Lucques, a customer asked for a pomegranate martini. Bartender Soren Banks, having seen a bowl of pomegranates in the kitchen, happily agreed to make her one. He rushed back to the kitchen for a quick juicing lesson, and then back to the bar. Following what he interpreted to be my instructions, he proceeded tp spray himself and all the customers at the bar with the bright-red juice. Fortunately, everyone was more amused than angry, especially after a free round of pomegran¬ate martinis (juiced this time in the kitchen).
3/4 cup blanched hazelnuts
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon hazelnut oil
1 tablespoon finely diced shallot; plus 2 small shallots, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons fresh pomegranate juice (from 1 to 2 pomegranates), plus 1/3 cup pomegranate seeds
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
2 teaspoons rice vinegar
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 small Fuyu persimmons, thinly sliced
1/2 lemon, for juicing ½ pound arugula
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 375°F
Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet, and toast 8 to 10 minutes, stirring once or twice, until they smell nutty and are lightly browned. When the nuts have cooled, chop them coarsely and toss them with 1 teaspoon hazelnut oil and a gen¬erous pinch of salt.
Place the diced shallot, pomegranate juice, both vinegars, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a bowl, and let sit 5 minutes. Whisk in the olive oil and the remaining 1 tablespoon hazelnut oil. Taste for balance and seasoning.
In a large salad bowl, toss the persimmons, sliced shallots, and pomegranate seeds with the dressing, and season with salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon. Gently toss in the arugula and taste for seasoning. Arrange the salad on a platter, and scatter the hazelnuts over the top.
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