Wednesday, March 01, 2017

Gribenes




When I was a child, we always had Friday night dinner at my Grandmother's. She often served Gribenes basically Crispy Fried Chicken Skin, that is fried in Schmaltz (Chicken Fat). I loved it. I don't think I have had it since my childhood. It has to be one of the singular most un-healthy dishes that you can eat. But it sure was good. We made an Indian Chicken recipe for Butter Chicken, that called for skinless pieces of chicken. When I skinned them I realized I could use the skin to make Gribenes. I didn't have a recipe so I used the one below from The New York Times. I don't actually remember if my Grandmother used onions, but I followed the recipe. The recipe doesn't say how much Schmaltz to use, in fact maybe they just want you to use the fat attached to the skin, it was unclear. We had to go to McCall's Meat and Fish and I noticed they had Duck Fat for sale, so I bought a tub of Duck Fat and used it to fry the skin and onions till they were crispy. We noshed on the Gribenes like Potato Chips

Schmaltz and Gribenes Recipe
The New York Times

Schmaltz is rendered poultry fat, in this case made from chicken, while gribenes are its crispy, crackling-like byproduct that comes from bits of chicken skin. The key to this recipe is to go low and slow: You want the fat to cook gently and thoroughly so it renders completely without burning. Some would argue that the onion is mandatory and not optional, but if you plan to use the schmaltz for very delicate recipes, or sweet recipes (chilled schmaltz works wonderfully as the fat in pastry dough), feel free to leave it out. Your schmaltz won’t have as deep a flavor, but it will be more versatile. Schmaltz will last for at least a week in the refrigerator and up to six months in the freezer. If your butcher won’t sell it to you, the best way to obtain chicken skin and fat is to collect trimmings in the freezer every time you buy a whole bird. Or you can strip the skin and fat from chicken thighs and save the skinless meat to use in other recipes.


INGREDIENTS

¾    pound chicken skin and fat, diced (use scissors, or freeze then dice with a knife)
¾    teaspoon kosher salt
½    medium onion, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch slices (optional)

Preparation

1.   In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, toss chicken skin and fat with salt and 1 tablespoon water and spread out in one layer. Cook over medium heat for about 15 minutes, until fat starts to render and skin begins to turn golden at the edges.

2.   Add onions and cook 45 to 60 minutes longer, tossing occasionally, until chicken skin and onions are crispy and richly browned, but not burned.


3.   Strain through a sieve. Reserve the schmaltz. If you want the gribenes to be crispier, return to the skillet and cook over high heat until done to taste. Drain gribenes on a paper-towel-lined plate.

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