Tom and Shumon stopped by for dinner. We made a new recipe Chicken M’Chermel. It is from Paula Wolfert's new and probably last cookbook. She has been an inspiration to us. We have many of her cookbooks. She is suffering from the beginning stages of dementia. We served the Tagine with Couscous. It was excellent.
Paula Wolfert
Unforgettable
Gingery, lemony, peppery, sweet yet savory—this tagine is
one of Paula’s favorite examples of the classic Moroccan combination of chicken
with preserved lemons and olives. It is also a beautiful example of the
subtlety and intensity of the best Moroccan tagines, which is why she included
a version of it in the proposal for her first Moroccan cookbook.
This recipe will work equally well in either a traditional
Moroccan clay tagine on the stove top or, because a clay tagine acts like
stove-top oven, in a metal casserole (stainless steel or enameled cast iron
will work) in the oven. In addition to a generous heaping of green olives and
plenty of onion (here blitzed in a food processor), the dish has a secret enriching
ingredient, chicken livers. “They’re used the way French cooks use foie gras,
as a thickener for the sauce,” Paula says. Tagines are traditionally eaten with
the first three fingers of the right hand, sometimes with flatbread to help
grab onto the meat, though silverware can be used.
Serves 6 to 8
The chicken marinates overnight.
¼ cup
extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic
cloves, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon
ground ginger
1 teaspoon
sweet smoked paprika (pimenton de la Vera dulce)
¼ teaspoon
ground toasted cumin, preferably Moroccan
¼ teaspoon
freshly ground black pepper
Flaky sea salt
6 or 8 skin-on, bone-in whole chicken
legs (4 pounds), preferably organic and air-chilled, cut into thighs and
drumsticks
1 to 2 chicken livers (2 ounces total)
3 large
red onions (1-1/2 pounds total)
½ cup
chicken stock
¼ cup
chopped fresh cilantro
¼ cup
chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish
2 tablespoons
saffron water
¼ teaspoon
ground turmeric
1-1/2 cups pitted Picholine olives, rinsed and at room temperature
2 preserved
lemons quartered and rinsed of excess salt
¼ cup
lemon juice (from about 2 lemons)
6 to 8 flatbreads, such as pita or
naan, warmed, for serving (optional)
The day before serving, in a large bowl, stir together the
olive oil, garlic, ginger, paprika, cumin, black pepper, and 1 teaspoon salt.
Pat the chicken pieces dry with paper towels. Slide your fingers under the skin
to loosen it from the flesh, taking care not to tear the skin or to remove it
entirely. Add the chicken pieces and livers to the marinade and rub them all
over, working the mixture under and over the chicken skin. Cover and
refrigerate overnight.
The next day, if you are using a metal casserole, preheat
the oven 325°F. If you are using a tagine, you will not need the oven. Cut the
onion into 1-inch chunks and pulse in batches in the processor to finely chop
(avoid a pureed texture). Set a large sieve in the sink and line a large bowl
with a kitchen towel. Transfer the onions to the sieve and rinse under cool
running water. Transfer the rinsed onions to the prepared bowl and squeeze dry
with the towel.
In a tagine 12 inches wide and 2-1/2 inches deep, or a
6-to8-quart heavy stainless-steel or enameled cast- iron casserole, combine the
water, cilantro, parsley, saffron water, turmeric, and and about 1/5th
of the onion. Add the chicken livers and marinade stir to coat.
If using a tagine, cover and set it on a heat diffuser over
medium-low heat. If using a casserole, place a piece of crumpled parchment on
top of the chicken, cover with a lid, then transfer to the oven. Whether in the
tagine on the stove top or in the casserole in the oven, cook the chicken for
50 minutes. As the chicken pieces cook, gently turn them and the livers often
in the sauce, being careful not to tear the chicken skin or let the sauce rise
above a simmer.
Use a slotted spoon or tongs to transfer the livers to a
small bowl or mini food processor. Mash or process them to a course paste, then
return to the tagine or casserole with the remaining onions. Return the-covered
tagine to a simmer on to the stove top or the covered casserole to the oven and
continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is very tender and
the flesh falls easily from the bone, or an instant-read thermometer inserted
near (but not touching) the bone registers between 185° and 195°, 1-1/2 to 2
hours longer on the stove top or about 1 hour longer in the oven. The thighs
may cook more quickly than the legs; if that happens, submerge the legs in the
sauce and stack the thighs on top to keep them warm in the steam.
Transfer the chicken pieces to a sheet pan and cover to keep
warm. The sauce should measure about 1-1/2 cups and be thick enough that a
wooden spoon pulled across the bottom of the cooking vessel leaves a trail. If the
sauce is too thin, simmer over medium heat until reduced to about 1-1/2 cups.
Stir in the chicken, olives, preserved lemons,
and lemon juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and lemon juice if
needed.
Position an oven rack 7 to 8 inches from the heating element
end preheat the boiler. Place the tagine or casserole under the broiler and
broil until the chicken and sauce are golden brown, about 4 minutes. Serve the
chicken in the tagine or casserole or individual plates. Garnish with fresh parsley
and accompany with flatbread, it desired.
Note: The preserved lemon quarters can be served whole or
coarsely chopped, with or without their pulp. The pulp will impart a more
intense flavor to the sauce. It is more traditional to serve the lemon quarters
whole and let guests pull them apart into smaller pieces using their fingers or
flatbread.
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