We made a variation on a recipe from the Zuni Café Cookbook
by Judy Rodgers. Her recipe is called: Salmon Cooked with Flageolets, Bacon,
& Red Wine. We substituted Lentils for the Flageolets. The Wild salmon was Salmon from McCall’s Meat and Fish. It was perfectly done and was delicious. This like
most of Judy’s recipe is a little complicated but worth it. This is a
restaurant level dish. It also photographs beautifully! It tastes as good as it
looks!
Salmon Cooked with Flageolets, Bacon, & Red Wine
The Zuni Café Cookbook
Judy Rodgers
An earthy salmon dish, best made with fat, late-summer
salmon which will stand up to the challenge of the other long, rich flavors. We
use Pacific salmon-Sacramento River Basin Kings or wild Alaskan-for this, or
any salmon dish. All commercial salmon labeled "Atlantic" is farmed;
I find its flavor disappointing to dreadful, and the environmental effects of
salmon farming can be devastating to surrounding waters and wild fish. Choose
fat pieces of fish; thin tail pieces will cook too rapidly. As long as you
don't overcook the salmon, or over-reduce the sauce, the result will be satiny
and succulent. You can substitute lentils for the flageolets.
Be prepared to adjust the oven temperature or distance from
the broiler as necessary when you make this dish.
for 4 servings:
4 pieces
salmon fillet, preferably King, about 6 ounces each and 1 to 1-1/2 inches thick
Salt
1-1/3 cups
medium-bodied red wine, such as Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, or a light Merlot
3/4 cup
Chicken Stock
3 ounces
thickly sliced bacon or braised bacon, cut into 1/4-inch strips
About 6
tablespoons unsalted butter, sliced and chilled 1/2 cup finely diced carrots {2
ounces}
1/2 cup
finely diced celery (2 ounces]
1/2 cup
finely diced yellow onions [2 ounces]
2 cups
cooked flageolets , drained, cooking liquid reserved
A few
sprigs of fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
Seasoning
the salmon
For the best flavor, do this several hours in advance}:
Season the salmon evenly with salt. Cover loosely and refrigerate.
Cooking
the salmon:
Preheat the broiler. Position the rack about 6 inches from
the element.
Place the wine in a small saucepan and reduce to about 1/3
cup. Add the chicken stock and return to a simmer. Turn off the heat.
Place the bacon in a 12- or 14-inch ovenproof skillet and
lightly brown it in its own fat over medium heat. Reduce the heat slightly and
pour off all but a film of the fat. Add about 2 tablespoons of the butter, the
carrots, celery, onions, and 1 sprig of the thyme. Cook, stirring, until the
vegetables are tender, about 6 minutes.
Add the flageolets, about 1 cup of the red wine-stock
mixture, the bay leaf, another sprig of thyme, and about 3 tablespoons of the
butter. Raise the heat to medium and swirl as the liquid comes to a simmer.
Reduce the heat to low, add the salmon, and swirl and tilt the pan to baste the
top of the fish. Make sure no beans, bacon, or bits of
vegetables are perched on top of the fish, where they could burn. The pieces of
fish should not be touching one another.
Place the pan under the broiler. Cook for about 6 or 7
minutes; the salmon should be quite rare and the whole surface of the dish
should be sizzling and beginning to color. Watch closely; if the fish or beans
threaten to char at any point, reduce the oven temperature to 500°
While the fish is cooking, set four plates in the oven to
heat for a minute or so, then remove.
Transfer the pan to the stovetop. Using a spatula and tongs,
transfer the salmon onto the warm plates, where it should reach medium-rare as
you finish the sauce. Protect from drafts.
Set the pan over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Taste.
If the liquid looks or tastes thin, simmer briefly to reduce and allow the
starch from the beans to bind the sauce. If it seems winy, add a splash of the
reserved bean cooking liquid. If you want more sauce, add the last splash of
red wine-stock mixture and some bean liquid. Correct the salt. Reduce the heat
and swirl in some or all of the remaining butter, to your taste.
Spoon the saucy beans over the waiting fish.