Chicken Braised with Apricots and Harissa
MAKES 8 THIGHS
REQUIRES OVERNIGHT MARINATING
FOR THE TEBIL
2 tablespoons ground coriander
1¼ teaspoons turmeric
½ teaspoon caraway seeds, ground
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
I thought I knew my harissa after nearly two decades of making it from scratch. Then I tasted a spoonful of rich, wine-dark paste from an unmarked jar that arrived on my doorstep from brothers Mansour and Karim Arem. They were on the verge of launching Zwita, a company focused on celebrating their Tunisian heritage. Whereas Western cooks and food writers are somewhat familiar with many of the food traditions of nearby Morocco, we've largely neglected to learn anything about Tunisia or its culinary history. And judging by the Arem brothers' harissa, that's entirely to our detriment.
Made with mild, sun-dried chiles, the traditional Tunisian pepper paste is layered with garlic, caraway, and coriander.
Multidimensional in flavor and distinctly thick, this harissa will be a revelation to anyone who has only encountered it squeezed from a tube (or any other version similarly doctored up with tomato products, hydrated chile powder, or fresh peppers).
Once I tasted their harissa, I began to incorporate it into my everyday cooking, stirring it into Garlic and Herb Labne (page 48) and drizzling it over roasted vegetables. But one of my favorite ways to use it is as a rub or marinade for chicken.
When I asked Mansour what other spices I should add to this braise he told me about tebil (pronounced tah-bill), a Tunisian coriander-based spice blend that varies from family to family. In some households, it consists entirely of coriander!
He also said that cumin is used sparingly in Tunisia, and always added at the end of cooking to keep it from overwhelming the dish. With Mansour's guidance, I tinkered with the spices to develop my own tebil for this dish.
Every time l've made this for friends, there hasn't been a morsel left. Since I use mild harissa, even the most spice-averse kids lap up every sip of braising juice and eat every bite of chicken off the bone. It's a winner, if there ever was one. highly recommend serving this chicken with steamed couscous because it absorbs the braising juices on your plate as you eat-ensuring that you'll get to enjoy every last drop.
FOR THE CHICKEN
8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 3 pounds)
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons mild harissa paste
3 tablespoons Cardamom
Ghee (page 61), Ghee (page 62), or extra-virgin olive oil
1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 carrots, peeled and roll-cut (see page 32) into ¾-inch pieces 8 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
1 cup crushed tomatoes (canned or fresh)
1 cup Chicken Stock (page 314) or water
2 bay leaves
Small handful of cilantro stems (reserve leaves for serving)
1 cup dried apricots, halved
1 teaspoon ground cumin
FOR SERVING
Cilantro leaves and tender stems
Steamed couscous, pearl couscous, or rice
Garlic and Herb
Labne
Green Sauce
To make the tebil, in a small bowl, stir together the coriander, turmeric, caraway, and pepper.
The day before you plan to cook, season the chicken generously on both sides with kosher salt. In a medium bowl, mash together the harissa paste and about half of the tebil.
Add the chicken and use your hands to evenly coat it all with the spiced harissa paste. Cover and refrigerate overnight, then bring to room temperature before cooking.
Adjust an oven rack to the center position and preheat to 375°F
Set a large nonreactive skillet over medium-high heat and add the cardamom ghee. When the fat shimmers, add the onion, carrots, and garlic. Season lightly with salt and sprinkle in the remaining tebil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are tender, translucent, and just beginning to take on color, about 12 minutes.
Add the tomatoes and chicken stock and stir to deglaze, then let the mixture return to a boil.
Transfer the vegetable and tomato mixture into a g × 13-inch baking dish and layer in the bay leaves and cilantro stems.
Arrange the chicken thighs, skin-side down, atop the bed of aromatics, then nestle the apricots around the chicken. The braising liquid should come about halfway up the sides of the chicken, so if you're at all short, add a splash of water or stock to make up the difference. Lay a piece of parchment atop the chicken, then seal the pan tightly with aluminum foil.
Transfer to the oven and cook until the chicken is completely tender and shows no resistance when pierced with a sharp knife, about 1½ hours.
When the chicken is completely tender, adjust the oven rack to the highest position and increase the oven temperature to 425°F. Remove the foil and parchment from the pan and flipt he chicken thighs over so that they sit skin-side up. Sprinkle the cumin into the braising liquid as you flip the thighs.
Return the baking dish to the oven and cook the chicken until the liquid is nicely reduced and the skins are crisp and golden brown, 18 to 20 minutes longer.
To serve, use tongs to gently arrange the chicken in a rimmed serving dish or shallow bowl. Discard the bay leaves and cilantro stems. Taste and adjust the seasoning of the braising juices with salt as needed, then spoon the apricots and braising juices over the chicken. Garnish with cilantro and serve with steamed couscous, garlic and herb labne, and green sauce.
Refrigerate leftover meat, apricots, and braising juices together in a covered container for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 3 months. Bring to a boil before serving.
VARIATION
To make a Lamb Tagine, substitute 4 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 3-inch pieces and salted in advance, for the chicken. Before cooking the aromatics, melt 3 tablespoons of Ghee (page 62) or oil in the Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the lamb on all sides, about 4 minutes per side, then set the meat aside. Discard the used fat and continue the recipe as written, Cooking the aromatics in fresh ghee. Note that the lamb may take up to 30