Mushrooms and Cherries

Wine:
Little James’ Basket Press Red Rhone Wine

We were still jet lagged. We did go to the Hollywood Farmer's Market and purchased Porcini Mushrooms. We had pre-decided if they had the mushrooms we would make: Tagliatelle with Fresh Porcini Mushrooms from The Splendid Table by Lynnne Rossetto Kasper. It is a fast and easy recipe. We found fresh figs at the market, so we started with a Salad of Arugula, Fresh Figs, Prosciutto and Almonds. Cherries are also in season, so we had fresh cherries and those great ginger cookies from The Cheese Store of Silverlake.

Tagliatelle with Fresh Porcini Mushrooms
Tagliatelle con Funghi Porcini
From the Splendid Table by Lynnne Rossetto Kasper

In spring and fall, when porcini mushrooms are literally cropping up after almost every rain, this easily-put-together pasta is found throughout Emilia-Romagna, Sauteing the porcini in butter and seasoning with only Parmigiano-Reggiano and a little salt and pepper makes a fine sauce for pasta.

Fresh porcini are appearing more and more at specialty food markets on this side of the Atlantic. Most plentiful in autumn and spring, the mushrooms are usually imported from Italy, and are often shipped whole and frozen. My personal preference is for unfrozen porcini, with their firm, velvety texture intact. But even though defrosted mushrooms tend to be spongy, they are still delicious in this dish. Save this recipe for a time when you need a fast but elegant supper.

[Serves 6 to 8 as a first course, 4 to 6 as a main dish]

6 quarts salted water
1 to 11/2 pounds fresh porcini mushrooms (smaller size preferred)
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter
1 pound imported dried tagliatelle
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
About 2/3 cup freshly grated Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Working Ahead: This dish goes together in about 15 minutes and is best cooked and eaten immediately.

Sauteing the Porcini and Cooking the Pasta: Bring the salted water to a full rolling boil. Warm a serving bowl and shallow soup dishes in a low oven.

Use a damp towel to wipe away any sand and debris clinging to the mush¬rooms. Pay special attention to the underside of their caps. Do not immerse them in water. Cut the mushrooms into V^-inch dice. Heat the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Raise the heat to medium-high, add the mushrooms, and saute 3 to 5 minutes, or until browned. Lower the heat to medium and cook another 6 to 7 minutes, or until tender.

While the mushrooms are cooking, drop the pasta into the water. Boil fiercely until pasta is tender but still a little firm to the bite. Fresh pasta can cook in a matter of seconds; dried pasta can take about 8 minutes. Drain immediately in a colander. Once the mushrooms are tender, season them with salt and pepper. Add the hot pasta to the skillet and toss to blend. Add the cheese and toss to thoroughly coat the pasta.

Serving: Turn the pasta into the heated bowl, and serve immediately.

Only Tagliatelle Will Do
I wish I had a nickel for every pound of fresh tagliatelle made in Bologna to go with Ragu Bolognese, Although ragus are eaten with macaroni, pappardelle, garganelli, and lasagna, tagliatelle is its most popular partner. These ribbons of egg pasta are just the right width to hold the nubbins of meat and vegetable, absorb the ragu's juices, yet not be overwhelmed by it. In the mouth, tagliatelle and ragu taste right together; they occupy equal space on the palate and blend perfectly. Chunkier sauces often balance better with bigger macaroni or pappardelle, and in other parts of Emilia-Romagna such choices are not questioned. But when dining in the style of Bologna, where tagliatelle was first created, only this pasta will do.