Pork Braised in Milk

Cathy combined two recipes Pan-roasted Pork Chops with Olives and Sambuca-Braised Fennel found in our blog of March 22, 2018 (Click the date to get the recipe) and Pork al Latte with Fennel Pollen and Crispy Sage. It was a great rendition of this dish. We have made Pork Braised in Milk many times. We had recently eaten it a ChiSpacca and decided to use Nancy's recipe(s). We purchased an injector and injected brine directly into the meat to make it even more moist. We used Fennel as a side along with Polenta. This made for a great Winter meal.

Pork al Latte with Fennel Pollen and Crispy Sage
Chi Spacca Cookbook
Serves 4 to 6
 
For the Pork
1 center-cut pork loin (about 4 pounds)
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1½ teaspoons sugar
1 recipe Fennel Rub (page 20)
2 lemons
1½ cups whole milk, plus more as needed
2 medium shallots, peeled and sliced ¼ inch thick lengthwise
2 bay leaves (preferably fresh)
 
For the Sage
2 cups olive oil, or as needed
½ cup fresh sage leaves
½ teaspoon kosher salt
 
For Serving
1 tablespoon fennel pollen
 
Pork braised in milk is a classic Italian preparation and results in juicy, flavorful meat. There is lemon in the braising liquid, and the combination of the milk with the acid causes the milk to form curds. Ryan likes to say it looks like a failed culinary school assignment, but i think the pillowy curds look pretty in a very rustic way. This recipe calls for a pork loin, a large cut of meat that becomes tender when braised; this is not to be confused with the smaller, thinner tenderloin, which should be grilled or seared, rather than slow cooked.
 
We brine this roast before grilling it. Brining refers to infusing meat with a solution usually consisting of water and either salt or a combination of salt and sugar. You can brine meat by soaking it in the solution or by injecting the solution into the meat. (We do the latter.) Brining tenderizes the meat, makes it juicier, and also seasons it on the inside. It is especially important with thick cuts of meat where the seasoning on the outside will have no effect whatsoever on the inside, and pork in particular, which can tend to be dry. To brine this roast, you will need a flavor injector, an inexpensive gadget that is available wherever cooking supplies are sold. The finished pork is seasoned with fennel pollen, a fragrant powder harvested from wild fennel in the hillsides of Tuscany and Umbria. You can find it at specialty food markets and online sources.
 
Ask your butcher for a (4-pound) bone-in pork loin roast with a nice fat cap. Pork loin does not have much marbling of fat in it, so the fat cap is essential.
 
You will need an extra-large platter to serve the pork on.
 
To prepare the pork, place it in a large baking dish or on a baking sheet.
Combine the salt, sugar, and ¼ cup water in a small bowl to make a brine and whisk to dissolve the salt and sugar. Fill the flavor syringe with the brine. Entering through the side of the roast, inject half of the brine deep into the center of the roast. Remove the syringe and inject the remaining brine deep into the roast through the other side. Pat the roast dry with paper towels. Reserve 2 teaspoons of the fennel rub and sprinkle the remaining rub evenly over the pork. Use the meat to mop up any fallen rub and press the rub into the meat with your hands to adhere. Set aside for 30 minutes to 1 hour to let the seasonings penetrate the pork and for the pork to come to room temperature.
 
Adjust the oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 325°F.
Cut off and discard the top and bottom of the lemons at the point where you can see the flesh. One at a time, place the lemons upright on a cutting board and cut down the sides at the point where the pith meets the flesh,
following the natural curve of the fruit to remove the pith along with the peel. Discard the pith and peels. Turn the lemons on their sides and cut along one of the membranes toward the center of the fruit. Working your way around the lemons, cut along both sides of each membrane to
release all the segments from the cores.
 
Combine the lemon segments, milk, shallots, bay leaves, and the reserved 2 teaspoons fennel rub in a large Dutch oven and stir to combine. Place the pork in the Dutch oven and add more milk if needed to come halfway up the sides of the pork. Warm the milk over medium-high heat until begins to bubble around the edges, about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat.
 
Roast the pork in the oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until an instant-read temperature registers 125°F when inserted deep into the side of the pork. Remove the pork from the oven and set aside for 10 to 20 minutes to allow the pork to rest and for the milk to form curds as it cools.
 
While the pork is braising, to fry the sage, pour enough oil into a small saucepan
to fill it 1½ to 2 inches deep. Fasten a deep-fry thermometer, if you have one, to the side of the pan and heat the oil over medium-high heat until the thermometer registers 350°F or a pinch of salt sizzles when dropped into the oil. While the oil is heating, create a bed of paper towels and have a slotted spoon or mesh strainer handy. Turn off the heat, add the sage leaves, and fry for about 30 seconds, until the leaves are crispy but not brown. Use the slotted spoon or strainer to lift the sage leaves out of the pan and transfer them to the paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with the salt. Let the oil cool and strain it into a container; cover and reserve the oil to cook with another time.
 
Remove the pork loin from the Dutch oven and place it on a cutting board with the bones facing up.
 
Using a slotted spoon, gently scoop the curds out of the pan, letting the liquid drain for a few seconds before gently dropping the curds onto an extra-large platter. When you have harvested all of the curds, slice the pork. With your knife parallel to and resting alongside the rib bones, slide your knife down the bones to release the loin, leaving as little meat on the bones as possible. Slice the loin ½ inch thick. Slide your knife under the slices and lay them fanned out over the curds so the curds are peeking out around the slices. Cut between the rib bones and pile them on the platter for people to gnaw on. Drizzle the liquid left in the pan over and around the pork slices and bones to moisten them. Sprinkle Sprinkle the fennel pollen and scatter the sage leaves over the pork.

Cherry Tomato Labneh Dip,

We made a staple for us Shu Mai Burgers. Shrimp and Pork are excellent independently and together make for a perfect combination. You can get the recipe on our blog of: June 30, 2010. Click the date to get the recipe. We served the Shu Mai Burgers with Skillet Meatballs with Peaches, Basil and Lime which acted almost like a Spicy Chutney. It was a good pairing and great use of fresh peaches. We served the Shu Mai Burgers and Peaches over Coconut Rice.

Fresh Cherry Tomatoes are in the market. We have been eating Labneh which is similar to Yogurt and made Cherry Tomato Labneh Dip. It was excellent. 

Cherry Tomato Labneh Dip

New York Times
 
Labneh makes the ultimate dip for any season or occasion. Labneh topped with chunks of roasted squash and fried pumpkin seeds can keep the winter blues away. Labneh topped with finely minced shallots, chives and caviar is posh enough to anoint any New Year’s table. But only one garnish deserves the labneh throne all summer long: bright cherry tomatoes simmered in olive oil — with whole garlic cloves — until plumped, slumped and soft enough to burst. It is the perfect combination of creamy, savory and sweet. Serve alongside warm, fluffy pita, crusty bread, or ice cold crudités when battling a scorcher of a summer. The leftover olive oil is a bonus ingredient that can be used to dress salads, cook vegetables or finish a pot of beans or pasta.
 

INGREDIENTS
Yield:4 servings
 
12     ounces cherry tomatoes
8       garlic cloves, peeled
2       sprigs fresh thyme
2.      sprigs fresh oregano
1½    teaspoons kosher salt
1       cup extra-virgin olive oil
8       ounces labneh
1       teaspoon crushed red pepper
Flaky salt
Crusty bread or crudités, for serving

 

PREPARATION

 

1.    Heat your oven to 325 degrees. Combine the cherry tomatoes, garlic cloves, thyme sprigs, oregano sprigs, salt and olive oil in a small, oven-safe lidded pot. Place the pot over medium heat and cook until the oil bubbles, about 1 minute. When it does, turn off the heat, cover tightly with a lid and transfer to the oven.

2. Let the mixture cook for 30 minutes. The tomatoes should be mostly whole and on the brink of bursting, and the garlic should smush when pressed. Remove and discard the thyme and oregano sprigs.

3. Put the labneh in the middle of a serving bowl. Using the back of a spoon, spread the labneh to fill the bowl evenly, then create a divot in the middle. Using a slotted spoon, place the tomatoes and garlic in the center of the divot and season with red pepper and flaky salt. Drizzle some of the fragrant oil on top, then reserve (and refrigerate) any remaining oil to dress salads, pasta, beans, vegetables or save for another use. (Strained and refrigerated in a covered container, the seasoned olive oil will keep for one week.)

Skillet Meatballs with Peaches, Basil and Lime
New York Times
 
You can make these gingery meatballs with any kind of ground meat (or vegan meat), but rich, brawny pork goes especially well with juicy peaches and the fresh basil. Make sure to use ripe or even overripe peaches (or nectarines). They should be very soft so they cook quickly, and very sweet so they contrast with the savory meatballs and tangy lime juice. Rice or rice noodles would fill this meal out perfectly and substantially, as would a crisp-leafed salad for a lighter, more summery supper.
 

INGREDIENTS
Yield:3 to 4 servings
 
1½    tablespoons finely grated or minced fresh ginger
3       garlic cloves, grated or minced
1¼    teaspoon ground cumin, plus more for serving
1¼    teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed
1       pound ground pork (or turkey or chicken, or vegan meat)
⅓      cup panko or other plain bread crumbs
3       tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil, plus basil leaves for serving
2       tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2       tablespoons wine (dry white, rosé or red), or use broth, orange juice or water
2       cups diced ripe peaches or nectarines (about 3)
¼      cup thinly sliced white or red onion, or scallions
1       lime, halved

White rice or coconut rice, rice noodles, or crisp salad greens, for serving

 

 

PREPARATION

 

1.    In a large bowl, mix together ginger, garlic, cumin and salt. Add pork, panko and basil. Using your hands, gently mix everything together, making sure not to overwork the mixture. (Otherwise, the meatballs get tough.) Form into 1¼-inch balls.

2.     Heat a large skillet over medium-high, then add the oil and let it heat up until it thins out. Add meatballs in one layer. Cook, turning and shaking the pan, until meatballs are browned all over, 5 to 7 minutes.

3.    Pour the wine into the skillet and move meatballs over to one side of the pan, scraping up the browned bits. Add peaches, a pinch of salt and 2 tablespoons water to the empty side of pan. When peaches are simmering, cover the pan, lower the heat to medium, and let cook until the meatballs are no longer pink at their centers, and the peaches juicy and tender, about 5 to 10 minutes longer.

4.    Uncover the pan. If the mixture seems too runny, let it cook down for another minute or so. The peaches should break down into a chunky sauce. Hard or unripe peaches may take a few extra minutes.

5.    Add the onions to the pan and mix them in so they wilt slightly. Squeeze lime juice all over everything, then taste and add salt and lime juice, as needed. Sweeter peaches will need more lime juice, tart ones, less.

6.    Serve the meatballs sprinkled with more cumin and garnished with torn basil leaves, over the rice or greens.

Coconut Rice

New York Times

 

Coconut milk lends rice both fat and sweetness, making it a richer, more mellow side than plain rice. To make it, simply replace half of the cooking water with coconut milk. It becomes a meal if you serve it with a fried egg, finely sliced pickled chiles with a little of their pickling liquid and some crushed peanuts. And if you wanted to turn it into dessert, serving it with ripe fruit like cut mango on top, you could stick to the recipe below, but bump the sugar up to 2 tablespoons.

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:3 to 4 servings

 

1       cup long-grain white rice, such as jasmine

¾      cup coconut milk

1       scant tablespoon sugar

½      teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

¾      cup water

 

PREPARATION

 

1.     Rinse the rice a few times, until the water that drains away runs almost completely clear.

2.    Put in a medium, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat with coconut milk, water, sugar and salt. When the liquid comes up to a boil, give it a good stir, scraping the bottom of the pot. Cover the pot and turn the heat down to low.

3.    Cook for 15 minutes, then turn off the heat and let the rice rest for 10 minutes. Mix gently with a flexible rubber spatula. Taste, season with salt and serve.

Grilled Lamb Chops with Pomegranate Molasses

I had wanted to grill Lamb Chops, and Cathy found a great recipe: Grilled Lamb Chops with Pomegranate Molasses from Cooking with Café Pasqual’s by Katharine Kagel.  You can find the recipe on our blog of: September 5, 2012. Click the date to get the recipe.

We made two side dishes to go with the delicious Lamb. Brown-Butter Orzo with Butternut Squash was an excellent recipe. The Orzo of course is very mild and an interesting Pasta that looks like Rice. The Brown-Butter and Squash kicks the flavor and texture up several notches. I am sure we will make this again.

The second side we made I didn't particularly like: Whole-Roasted Celery Root with Coriander Seed Oil. You might like it though so I include it for others to try if they want. I found it difficult to eat and also unappetizing to look at on the plate. Oh well!

Brown-Butter Orzo with Butternut Squash

New York Times

 

In this autumnal one-pot meal, rice-shaped orzo is cooked with stock and butternut squash until it’s tender and creamy, a little like risotto but without as much stirring. Brown butter, lemon zest and sage add depth of flavor, while red-pepper flakes give this zip and heat. An optional dollop of ricotta intensifies the creaminess but feel free to skip it for a lighter dish. This recipe also works well as a hearty side for roasted meats and fish.

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:4 servings

 

4        tablespoons unsalted butter

¾       cup thinly sliced shallots (2 to 3), or use onion or leek

1        small (2-pound) butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into ¾-inch cubes (3 cups)

1        tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage leaves, or 2 teaspoons chopped rosemary or marjoram, plus more for serving if you like

1        teaspoon fine sea salt or table salt, plus more as needed

¼       teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for serving

¼       teaspoon red-pepper flakes, plus more for serving

3        cups vegetable stock or chicken stock

1½     cup uncooked orzo

1        lemon, zested and halved

2        tablespoons grated Parmesan, plus more for serving

½       cup whole-milk ricotta (optional)

 

PREPARATION

 

1.         In a medium Dutch oven, or a large (12-inch) skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the foam subsides, the milk solids turn golden brown and it smells nutty and toasty, 3 to 4 minutes. (Watch carefully to see that it doesn’t burn.)

2.         Stir in shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, about 2 minutes. Add squash, sage, a large pinch of salt, the ¼ teaspoon black pepper and the ¼ teaspoon red-pepper flakes, and cook until squash is golden at the edges and begins to soften, 12 to 17 minutes.

3.         Add stock and bring to a simmer. Stir in orzo, lemon zest and the 1 teaspoon salt. Cover the pan and simmer over medium-low heat until orzo is just tender and most of the liquid is absorbed, 14 to 18 minutes, stirring once or twice. If the pan dries out before the orzo and squash are tender, add a splash or two of water.

4.         Remove pan from heat and stir in Parmesan. Taste and add more salt if needed, and a squeeze of lemon juice if the dish needs brightness. Dollop with ricotta if using, and sprinkle with more grated Parmesan and black pepper just before serving, garnishing the top with more red-pepper flakes and sage.

 Whole-Roasted Celery Root with Coriander Seed Oil

Ottolenghi - Simple

Serves four as a starter or side

 

1     large celery root, hairy roots discarded (no need to trim) unpeeled but scrubbed clean (2½ Ib/1.2kg)

3     tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve

1½   tsp coriander seeds, lightly crushed

flaked sea salt

1      lemon, cut into wedges, to serve

 

I've managed to achieve the seemingly impossible here, of taking a recipe from my NOPI cookbook (full of recipes that would not make it into Ottolenghi SIMPLE) and actually making it more complicated for Ottolenghi SIMPLE. In NOPI, the celery root is roasted whole as it is, for 3 hours, brushed with oil and sprinkled with salt. The results are so delicious and so straightforward that I've taken the liberty of adding one more twist in the form of the coriander seeds. The taste is even more wonderful than before. I like to eat it as it is as a starter, cut into wedges and served with a squeeze of lemon or a dollop of crème fraîche, but you can also serve it as a side to a pork chop or steak.

 

1.            Preheat the oven to 375°F.

2.            Pierce the celery root with a small sharp knife all over, about20 times. Place the celery root in a baking dish and rub generously with the oil, coriander seeds, and 2 tsp flaked salt. Roast for 2½2-3 hours, basting every 30 minutes until the celery root is soft all the way through and golden brown on the outside.

3.            Cut into wedges and serve with a lemon wedge, a sprinkle of salt, and a drizzle of olive oil.

 

Chicken Adobo and Caramelized Corn with Fresh Mint

 

We tried two new recipes for this dinner. They were both excellent. Corn and Chicken are a natural combination. The Carmelization of the Corn only makes it better, crispy and sweet. The Chicken had a great spicy tang to it. We will make both of these dishes again.

Caramelized Corn with Fresh Mint

New York Times

 

This is an invincible weapon in the culinary arsenal: whole corn kernels, simply tossed in a hot skillet of melted butter, and showered with fresh mint when they start to pop and turn brown. It's sweet and savory all at once. And it's divine.

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:10 to 12 servings

 

4 to 5   cups fresh corn kernels, white or yellow (from about 12 cobs), or two 16-ounce bags frozen white corn

1                stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter

½               cup chopped fresh mint

Salt

 

PREPARATION

 

1.            If using frozen corn, drain between layers of paper towels until thawed, about 30 minutes.

2.            In a wide skillet, melt half the butter over high heat. Add half the corn and cook, stirring often, until golden and browned (kernels may begin to pop), about 10 minutes. Stir in half the mint and sprinkle with salt. Transfer to a serving bowl. Repeat with remaining corn, butter, mint and salt.

 

Chicken Adobo

New York Times

 

It is the national dish of the Philippines, and the subject of intense and delicious debate across its 7,100 islands whether made with chicken, pork or fish. Whichever, the protein is braised in vinegar until pungent and rich, sweet and sour and salty at once, then sometimes crisped at the edges in high heat, and always served with the remaining sauce. Its excellence derives from the balance of its flavors, in the alchemy of the process. Cooking softens the acidity of the vinegar, which then combines with the flavor of the meat to enhance it. Whether consumed in Manila’s heat or on the edge of a New York winter, adobo holds the power to change moods and alter dining habits. It is a difficult dish to cook just once. The recipe that follows derives from one given to The Times in 2011 by Amy Besa, who runs, with her husband, Romy Dorotan, the excellent Purple Yam restaurant in Ditmas Park, Brooklyn.

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:4 servings

 

1          cup coconut milk

¼         cup soy sauce

1½       cup rice vinegar

12        garlic cloves, peeled

3          whole bird’s-eye chilies or other fiery chili

3          bay leaves

1½       teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

3 to 4   pounds chicken thighs

 

PREPARATION

1.    Combine all of the marinade ingredients in a large, nonreactive bowl or resealable plastic freezer bag. Add the chicken and turn to coat. Refrigerate overnight or for at least 2 hours.

2.    Place chicken and marinade in a large lidded pot or Dutch oven over high heat and bring to a boil. Immediately reduce heat to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is cooked through and tender, around 30 minutes.

3.     Heat broiler. Transfer chicken pieces to a large bowl, raise heat under the pot to medium-high, and reduce the sauce until it achieves almost the consistency of cream, about 10 minutes. Remove bay leaves and chilies.

4.    Place chicken pieces on a roasting pan and place under broiler for 5 to 7 minutes, until they begin to caramelize. Remove, turn chicken, baste with sauce and repeat, 3 to 5 minutes more. Return chicken to sauce and cook for a few minutes more, then place on a platter and drizzle heavily with sauce.