Shoulder of Spring Lamb with Flageolet Beans and Olive Relish

We wanted to celebrate Bea's 85th birthday with a special presentation. She wasn't quite up to it, but we had the dinner anyway. We toasted her and wished her a happy and healthy year. We made this fantastic Shoulder of Spring Lamb with Flageolet Beans and Olive Relish. We prepared a take-out dinner for her and dropped it off at her house.

Shoulder of Spring Lamb with Flageolet Beans and Olive Relish

A Platter of Figs

David Tannis

True spring lamb is not easily found here, as most American lamb (sourced from New Zealand) is raised to a larger size. But some good butchers carry or can order it, and a few excellent American farms now specialize in young pastured lamb. Otherwise, ask your butcher for the smallest lamb shoulder roasts possible. Tender young spring lamb is best cooked almost medium, with a crisp roasty exterior. I’m crazy about pale green flageolet beans, a classic lamb accompaniment. Their wonderful nutty flavor pairs well, too, with olive oil and thyme.

1-1/2      pounds dried flageolet beans (about I cups)

1             large onion, quartered

1             bay leaf

A few unpeeled garlic cloves, plus 4 garlic cloves sliced

Thyme sprigs

Salt and pepper

2 boneless spring lamb shoulders, about 3 pounds each, tied into roasts

Rosemary sprigs
Fruity olive oil

2       cups dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1       small bunch flat-leaf parsley

Olive Relish (recipe follows)

Pick over the flageolet beans and rinse them well. Set them to boil in a large heavy pot with enough cold water to cover by 3 inches. Add the onion, bay leaf, impeded garlic, and a large thyme sprig. When the water boils, turn the flame to low and let the beans simmer gently until quite tender, about 1 hour if they are from a recent crop, longer if not.

Once the beans are done, stir a good spoonful of salt into the cooking liquid, and let the beans cool in their broth. The beans can be cooked early in the day, or even a day ahead and refrigerated.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Season the lamb roasts with salt and pepper. Insert the slices of garlic in the loose flesh on the underside of the roasts. Lay a few rosemary and thyme sprigs in the bottom of a roasting pan. Set the lamb on top.

Drizzle a little olive oil over the lamb. Pour the white wine into the pan.

Roast the lamb for 45 minutes to an hour, or until the exterior is nicely browned and the internal temperature reads 130°F. Remove the lamb to a platter, cover loosely, and let it rest.

Scrape up the juices from the bottom of the roasting pan with a wooden spoon, taking care to dissolve the caramelized brown bits clinging here and there. Pour the pan juices through a fine-meshed strainer into a small saucepan. Skim off any surface fat, and reheat the pan juices just before serving.

Drain the flageolets, reserving their liquid, and put them in a shallow pan. Season them with salt and pepper, a little chopped thyme, and a good splash of fruity olive oil. Add a cup of the bean broth and reheat the beans gently.

Chop the parsley and slice the lamb.

Pour the flageolets onto a warmed platter and arrange the lamb slices over the beans. Spoon some of the warm pan juices over the lamb. Scatter the parsley over everything and serve. Pass the olive relish, thinned with pan juices if you like.

serves 8—10

Olive Relish

A wonderful condiment to have on hand, perfect with the roast lamb, this relish can also enhance grilled fish or roast chicken, or liven up a sandwich or a pizza. Well covered, it will keep for a week in the refrigerator.

1       cup oil-cured Moroccan olives, pitted

1       cup Niçoise olives, pitted

2       teaspoons capers, well rinsed

2       small garlic cloves, smashed to a paste with a little salt
Finely chopped zest of half a small lemon

Juice of 1 small lemon

1       teaspoon chopped thyme

2       anchovy fillets, well rinsed and chopped (optional)

About cup olive oil

Salt and pepper

Pinch of cayenne or red pepper flakes (optional)

Put the olives, capers, garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, thyme, anchovies, if using, and 8 cup olive oil in a blender or food processor and grind to a paste. Make the texture of the relish to your preference—rough or smooth. Pulsing the ingredients makes it rough; for a smoother texture, let the machine run for a few minutes. (For a more rustic version, hand-chop the ingredients.)

Scrape the olive relish into a small bowl. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding pepper—or a little cayenne or red pepper flakes —as desired and salt if necessary. Thin with a little more olive oil to loosen the paste. Makes about 2 cups relish.

Salad with Green Goddess Dressing

We decided to make a salad with the 60's classic Green Goddess Dressing. As I remember it, my mother never made Green Goddess Dressing from scratch, but rather it came in a bottle marked: Kraft. Ain't the same!

Green Goddess Dressing 

New York Times

Unlike more complicated versions of green goddess, this one, adapted from the cookbook author Jessica Battilana, comes together quickly in a food processor. Mayonnaise and full-fat Greek yogurt give the dressing richness and tang, while parsley, basil and tarragon lend the springtime perfume of fine herbs. Two anchovy fillets offer salt and a rumor of umami. The recipe is so mouth-smackingly perfect that it doesn’t require any adjusting. Serve with this greenest-green salad. Use leftover dressing as a dip, alongside carrots, cucumbers and radishes, or as an accompaniment to grilled fish or chicken.

Ingredients

2          oil-packed anchovy fillets

½         cup mayonnaise, preferably Hellmann’s/Best Foods

⅓         cup full-fat Greek yogurt

½         cup parsley leaves

⅓         cup basil leaves

1 to 2   tablespoons lemon juice

2          tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves

3          tablespoons minced chives

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

In a food processor, combine the anchovies, mayonnaise, yogurt, parsley, basil and 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Process until smooth and uniformly green. Transfer to a lidded jar, and stir in the tarragon and chives. Adjust seasoning as needed with salt, pepper and lemon juice.

Spaghetti Bolognese

We love Pasta with all kinds of sauces. It is an essential food for us. Spaghetti Bolognese if definately one of our favorites. You can get the recipe for this one on our blog of: November 16, 2013. Click the date to get the recipe.

4 inch thick Porterhouse

We might have overdone it on this 4 inch thick Porterhouse. Not that the steak was overdone, it was perfectly rare. It was the size of the damn steak. 4 inches thick is huge. Had leftovers for days. I loved it! The steak,  of course, was from McCall's Meat and Fish. There is no need to grill a steak outdoors if you use this recipe from February 17, 2018. Click the date to get the recipe. Served with Baked Potato and Greens with Balsamic, it was perfect dinner!

Rici-e-Bici

Spring to us means Rici-e-Bici. You need to start with lots of fresh spring Peas. This dish was enhanced because our friend Guillermo sent us a fresh aged Parmesan Cheese from Italy. The Parmesan was far different from what we usually get at the store. It was much more intense with a slightly sour aroma. We loved it and thank him! You can find the recipe for this perfect spring dish on our blog of: March 31, 2014. Click the date to get the recipe.

Slow Salmon with Citrus and Herb Salad

I liked this recipe for Slow Salmon with Citrus and Herb Salad. It was a simple preparation that shows the Salmon to perfection. You must try it!

Slow Salmon with Citrus and Herb Salad

Dining In

Alison Roman

Serves 4 to 6

1          1-1/2 piece of skinless salmon (skinless halibut or cod work well here, too)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2          lemons, Meyer or regular, thinly sliced

1          blood orange, mandarin, or regular orange, thinly sliced

6          sprigs fresh thyme, rosemary, oregano, or marjoram (optional)

1-1/2   cups olive oil

2          cups fresh herbs, such as parsley, cilantro, dill, and tarragon

1          tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Flaky sea salt

NOTE: As I mentioned, other ingredients can be added to the baking dish to cook alongside. Try thinly sliced fennel or chiles or sprigs of herbs like rosemary and thyme.

Confession: I can't find a better way to cook salmon. I've tried, but this is truly the best. Slowly roasting an already fatty fish in even more luxurious fat (here, olive oil) makes it nearly impossible to overcook; plus, you can flavor that oil with whatever you fancy: spices, herbs, citrus, chiles, which will flavor the fish, which is why you’re here.

The first time I made a version of this dish was for Bon Appetit magazine a few years back, and people still tell me it's their most favorite salmon in the land. This salmon isn't meant to one-up that salmon (which also had slices of fennel and fresh chiles), but to introduce it to those who haven't yet met its magic. It's also to remind those who maybe have had that dish that this very simple method is by far the most delicious, easy, and customizable way to cook any large piece of fish (it’s hard to beat a perfect fillet of wild salmon, but other fish like cod or halibut also work), so feel free to explore your options.

Oh, and if you're wondering, why yes, this is the ideal dinner party trick, sitting perfectly in the center of the Venn diagram where "looks impressive" and "not a ton of work” overlap. You can even double the size of the fillet to feed a real crowd, where you will be praised endlessly by at least ten people for how silky and rich your now famous salmon is.

Should you have any salmon left over, store it in the remaining oil, which will help keep it from drying out. It makes for ideal salmon niçoise, rice bowl, bagel topping, and more, so even though I say this serves four to six, feel free to make it just for one.

1.  Preheat the oven to 300°F.

2.  Season the salmon with kosher salt and pepper on both sides and place it in a large baking dish (a rimmed baking sheet will also work in a pinch, although the salmon will not quite be submerged) with the sliced lemons, oranges, and herb sprigs, if using.

3.  Drizzle the olive oil over everything and place the baking dish in the oven. Cook the salmon until it is just turning opaque around the edges and is nearly cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes.

4.  Toss the herbs with the lemon juice and flaky sea salt, and serve with your perfect salmon.

Bacon-Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Caraway Cabbage and Apples

We made Bacon-Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Caraway Cabbage and Apples once again. We probably made too much, but it all got eaten. This is the ultimate one dish meal! Of course we got the Pork Tenderloin from McCalls Meat and Fish. You can find the recipe for this fabulous Pork presentation on our blog of: October 29, 2018. Click the date to get the recipe.

Chicken Tagine with Pumpkin and Chickpeas

Chicken Tagine with Pumpkin and Chickpeas was a new recipe for us. It has been a cold rainy winter and it was a perfect dish for the weather. It brought back memories of our trip to Morocco. We love one dish dinners!

Chicken Tagine with Pumpkin and Chickpeas

A Platter of Figs

David Tanis

Saffron-scented North African—style chicken tagine is a wonderful stew, perfect for a small group, comforting on a cold night. In Tunisia and Morocco, tagine is both the name of the cooking vessel and the dish. Basically, a deep thick earthenware plate is filled with meat and vegetables or dried fruit. A high conical lid keeps the moisture in, allowing the dish to simmer, sizzle, and bake, on a propane stovetop or over hot coals. The tagine is a clever device, economical in a land where the price of fuel is high and most homes do not have ovens. Similar results can be achieved in an American oven using a wide shallow casserole or gratin dish.

This tagine can be made hours (or a day) before serving, and then is easily reheated. The recipe is easy to alter for other seasons (it’s wonderful with tomatoes in place of pumpkin).

For The Chickpeas

1       pound (2 cups) dried chickpeas, picked over and soaked overnight in cold water

1       large onion, quartered

1       cinnamon stick

A few cloves

Olive oil

Salt

Butter

Pinch of ground cinnamon

Chopped parsley

For The Tagine

About 4 pounds pumpkin or winter squash, seeds and membranes removed

Salt and pepper
12 large whole chicken legs (with thighs)

1       3-inch piece of ginger, peeled and grated

2       teaspoons cumin seeds, lightly toasted and roughly ground

4       large onions, diced small

2       tablespoons olive oil

2       tablespoons butter

6       garlic cloves, sliced

Large pinch of saffron

Red pepper flakes or cayenne

Harissa Oil (recipe follows)

To cook the chickpeas, drain them, put in a saucepan, and cover with quarts of water. Add the onion, cinnamon stick, cloves, a splash of olive oil, and a little salt. Bring to a boil, then simmer gently uncovered, for about an hour, or until the chickpeas are tender. Taste for salt and adjust. Leave the chickpeas to cool in the cooking liquid.

For the tagine, cut the pumpkin or winter squash into thick slices and spread them on a flat surface. Season the slices with salt and pepper.

Season the chicken legs generously with salt and pepper. Massage them with the grated ginger. Sprinkle the cumin seeds over the meat. Set the chicken aside.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a skillet over medium heat, saute the diced onions in a combination of butter and olive oil until softened. Season with salt and continue cooking until the onions are lightly golden, about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and add the sliced garlic cloves. Crumble the saffron over the onions. Stir the onions and season to taste with red pepper.

Arrange the onions in a shallow earthenware casserole (or two if necessary), then top with the pumpkin slices. Now put chicken legs over the pumpkin in one layer, skin side up. Add 1 to 4 cups of chickpea cooking liquid, barely covering the chicken.

Cover the casserole and bake for 20 minutes or so, until the liquid is bubbling briskly. Reduce the heat to 175°F and continue cooking for another 30 minutes, or until the chicken legs yield easily to a probing fork. Take the casserole from the oven and remove the chicken legs. Skim any surfacing fat with a shallow ladle.

Replace the chicken legs and return the dish to the oven, uncovered. Bake until the juices are bubbling and the chicken legs are lightly browned, about 20 minutes.

Warm the chickpeas in their cooking liquid, then drain and deposit them in a warmed bowl. Swirl in a little butter, the cinnamon, and some chopped parsley.

Serve each diner a chicken leg with some pumpkin and good ladle of broth. Spoon some chickpeas over each serving. Pass a bowl of the spicy harissa oil for drizzling.        

serves 8-10

Harissa Oil

This is a fragrant, spicy, ruddy-colored oil, to be drizzled over any number of things—olives, eggs, vegetables, toasted bread, or chicken stew.

1       tablespoon cumin seeds

1       teaspoon cayenne or other powdered

1       tablespoon coriander seeds     hot red chile

1       teaspoon caraway seeds

1 to 2 garlic cloves, smashed to a paste

1       teaspoon fennel seeds     with a little salt

I        tablespoons sweet paprika or mild

1       teaspoon salt ground red chile

1       cup olive oil

A few drops of red wine vinegar

Toast all the seeds in a dry pan over medium heat until they are fragrant. Grind the toasted seeds in a mortar or spice mill, then put them in a bowl.

Add the paprika, red pepper, garlic, and salt. Stir in the olive oil and vinegar. The harissa will keep in the fridge for up to a week. Makes about 1 cup

Tarragon Roasted Tile Fish

We wanted to make Tarragon Roasted Halibut with Hazelnut Brown Butter. When we went to McCall's Meat an Fish they didn't have Halibut but suggested Tile Fish. It is a soft white fish and worked perfectly. We served the fish with Rice and Guacamole I had made to go with my Margarita!
It was a perfect dinner, plus my Heart Doctor says I should eat fish twice a week and I can write off the cost of the dinner!

Tarragon Roasted Halibut with Hazelnut Brown Butter

Bon Appetit

Ingredients

½      cup blanched hazelnuts

1       large bunch fresh tarragon

1       3-3 1/2-pound skinless halibut fillet (halved lengthwise if very wide)

4       tablespoons olive oil, divided

Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper

½      cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

¼      cup fresh lemon juice

Lemon halves

Recipe Preparation

1.   Preheat oven to 350°. Spread hazelnuts in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and toast, stirring occasionally, until golden, 8-10 minutes. Coarsely chop; set aside.

2.   Reduce oven temperature to 300°. Scatter tarragon sprigs on a large rimmed baking sheet. Place halibut on top, drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil, and season with salt and pepper. Roast until halibut is just opaque in the center, 20-30 minutes, depending on thickness of fish.

3.   Meanwhile, melt butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring often, until butter foams, then browns (don't let it burn), about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; let brown butter cool slightly. Stir in lemon juice, hazelnuts, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil; season with salt and pepper.

4.   Serve fish with hazelnut brown butter sauce and lemon halves.

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Kung Pao Shrimp

We really like this home preparation of Kung Pao Shrimp. The recipe is easy. You can find the recipe on our blog of: July 3, 2017. Click the date to get the recipe.

Salmon and Cauliflower Gratin

We had leftover Cauliflower Gratin with Leeks and White Cheddar. We purchased Smoked Salmon at Cookbook and served it with Gratin. It was a simple delicious dinner. God I love the Cauliflower recipe. You can find it on our blog of: January 26, 2019. Click the date to get the recipe.

Buttermilk Chicken with Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts

Buttermilk Chicken with Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts has become a standby for us. It gives phenomenal crispy skin. The Brussel Sprouts and Potatoes make a great one pot dinner, plus we get lots of leftovers! You can fine the recipe on our blog of: April 15, 2017. Click the date to get the recipe.

Creme Fraiche Coffee Cake

We usually don't bake a lot of cakes but this recipe for Creme Fraiche Coffee Cake was irresistible. We had to make it. It was delicious. It was the perfect weekend coffee cake.

Creme FraicheCoffee Cake

Mark Peel & Nancy Silverton at Home

The wonderfully rich coffeecake has been, reinvented almost as many times as there are cookbooks. The crumb is moist, dense, of butter flavor, and the layer of streusel is everyone’s favorite combination of pecans, brown sugar, and cinnamon. Close your eyes, and you can probably recall eating something very similar in your childhood. Whenever Nancy makes this at home, the tantalizing aroma fils the apartment, and before the coffeecake has even corded we’re breaking off big hunks with our hands.



½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 cups granulated sugar

2 eggs, beaten

2 cups Creme Fraiche

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 tablespoon finely chopped lemon zest

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon coarse salt

¾ cup light brown sugar

2 cups coarsely chopped pecans, lightly toasted for 10 minutes in a 350 degree oven

4 teaspoons ground cinnamon



1. Preheat the oven to 350° F. Butter a 10-inch Bundt pan.

2. ln the Iarge bowl of an electric mixer cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs and beat until well blended. On low speed add the Creme Fraiche, vanilla, and lemon zest.

3. In a small bowl stir together by hand the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add to the butter mixture, beating just until blended. In another small bowl stir together by hand the brown sugar, pecans, and cinnamon or the streusel.

4. Pour half the batter into the Bundt pan. Sprinkle with half the streusel. Pour in the; Remaining batter, spreading with the back of a spoon to cover the streusel as much as possible. Top with the remaining streusel.

5. Bake for about 1 hour, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven and invert onto a serving plate

Serve warm.

Serves 10