Friday, December 31, 2010

New Years 2011







We decided to have a very intimate New Years with Jerry and Alan. We purchased Smoked Salmon, Caviar and planned a dinner built around fish. Woops were we wrong!

We found out that Jerry is allergic to fish! I have heard of people who are allergic to shellfish, but never fish. Oh well, time to adjust. But no time to plan a different meal for New Years Eve.

We decided the only viable option was to bring in food on New Years and serve our New Years dinner on Saturday night, hoping we wouldn’t be too hung over to enjoy it.

So I baked bread and we served Cheese from The Cheese Store of Silverlake as an appetizer. We then ordered in Indian Food for New Years. We figured if 1 billion Indians could eat Indian Food on New Years, why couldn’t we? We got the food from our local Indian restaurant, Agra Cafe. The restaurant delivers so we didn’t even need to go outside!

Alan and Jerry brought Wine and Cake for dessert. We had a very nice New Years, with lots of good conversation and at Midnight watched the sky of LA light up with illegal fireworks. It was quite a show.

It was very nice having a quite intimate New Years.

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Welcome back Jerry and Shumon






Shumon returned from a long trip to Southeast Asia and Jerry had driven down from San Francisco, so we decided to have a dinner for them. We had promised Jerry that the next time he returned to LA we would cook for him. Tim joined us a brought a decanter for the red wines which also serves as a check to see how much you have drunk, if you can fill the glass without spilling the wine.

We started with Indian Candy (Smoked / Dried Salmon) and Smoked Mussels. I purchased them at Santa Monica Seafood. It was a drag to drive to Santa Monica in the rain that we were having. Boy I wish they were available closer to Silverlake, but they are good!

Once again, we started with Crab with Dynamite Sauce. The sauce is terrific but it MUST be made with Japanese Mayo. We started with a recipe that we found on The Fine Lobster Blog called: Creamy Spicy Lobster: a twist on a Nobu Classic. Everyone loves it!  Click the date to get the recipe. We purchased excellent canned Lump Crab meat from McCall's Meat and Fish. It is called: MeTompkin. Look for it! The recipe can be found in our blog of: Sep 5, 2010. Click the date to get the recipe. With the crab we served Seaweed and Japanese. They were a great accompaniment to the crab.

For the main course we made Lamb Shanks. We purchased beautiful shanks at McCall’s Meat and Fish. We made Lamb Steamed with Preserved Lemon and Cumin from the Moro Cook Book by Sam and Sam Clark. The meat came out extremely soft and succulent. It was very tasty. The recipe can be found in our blog of Feb 10, 2010. Click the date to get the recipe.

We have had many different Couscous over the years but we found a brand that is exceptional: M’hamsa Couscous from Tunisia. We really recommend it. Look for it at a gourmet shop near you. We think this is the best cous-cous. It can be found at Cube on La Brea, or ordered from their web site.

For dessert we had a delicious Mango Cake that Jerry and Alan brought.

The dinner was a perfect fit for a cold rainy dish.

Monday, December 20, 2010

Breaking of Two Fasts Dinner

It's Looking better and better!

Just like Morocco

Risotto of the Vigil


Wow are you stinky!


Oh My God!
We decided to have one last dinner for Barbara. We went out to lunch with Robert and Darryl and planned a dinner with them. They said they would bake a cake to contribute to the dinner. In retrospect it turned out to be a “Breaking of the Fast Dinner”. The Harira soup is traditionally made for the breaking of Ramadan Fast by Muslims. The Risotto of Vigil is a risotto made in Italy to break the Christmas Eve Fast in Italy. All we needed was a Jewish Breaking of the Fast dish to be totally ecumenical. Maybe a Pastrami sandwich from Langer’s.

We wanted to use the lamb bone from our smoked lamb dinner. When we were in Morocco we had a wonderful Harira Soup made from lamb bones. Cathy found a recipe for it and made the soup from the Moro Cookbook. It tasted exactly like the one in Morocco. It was loaded with lentils and dal.

I baked a bread and enhanced the visual aspect of it by folding the ends in on itself. It looked quite professional with the crease down the center. I will try that trick again on my next loaf. Robert had donated some Rupuntzel Yeast from Germany and it was interesting working with a different yeast.

We went to Palate and wound up with wheel of Vacharon Cheese from Jura. There were only 12 wheels imported to America. It is very runny and stinky and was delicious with the fresh baked bread.

For the main course we made Risotto of the Vigil. We make this risotto every Christmas Season. This risotto is always a winner. Cathy enhanced it by using chunk of slab bacon instead of salt pork and flat iron steak instead of chuck.  She also used 2 cups beef stock, 2 cups veal stock and 1 cup water for the liquid and added beef bone marrow to the rice with the cooked beef. We picked up the salt pork and flat iron steak at McCall’s Meat and Fish. This combination made for an incredibly rich and wonderful risotto. You can find the unmodified recipe in our blog of December 22, 2009. Click the date to get the recipe, but enhance the recipe as I documented above to make it even better!

Darryl made a Chocolate Cake that was like a cross between a brownie and a mousse. It was totally rich. Wow!

A very special dinner!

Harira Soup
Moro – The Cookbook
Sam and Sam Clark

We always imagine the name of this soup being spoken with a guttural Islamic tongue, and being eaten without ceremony at the edge of a busy bus station somewhere in Morocco. The flavours of the spices and coriander are very evocative, and only the bus fumes are missing. On reflection the best hariras we have tasted have had a slightly sour taste, given either by slight­ly fermented flour or lemon juice.

Serves 4

350g neck of lamb in 3 or 4 pieces, or shank
2         litres cold water
1         large onion, finely chopped
3         garlic cloves, finely chopped
3         celery sticks, finely chopped
a pinch of saffron strand
½         teaspoon ground cinnamon
½         teaspoon turmeric
¾         teaspoon ground ginger
nutmeg (5 grates on a fine grater)
2         large bunches fresh coriander, washed and chopped
100         g small green lentils
120g         chana dhal (small, split and skinned chickpeas)        
1         dessertspoon tomato puree
3         rounded dessertspoons plain flour or fine semolina flour soaked in 50ml water
Juice of 1 lemon
50g         unsalted butter (optional)
1 lemon, quartered
sea salt and black pepper

Put the neck of lamb into a large saucepan with the water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes, skimming off any scum or fat as it appears. Add the onion, garlic, celery, saffron, cinnamon, turmeric, ginger, nutmeg, salt and pepper as well as half the coriander. Cook for half and hour before adding the lentils and chana dhal, then simmer for another half-hour. Take out the pieces of lamb. The lamb should now be soft enough to be pulled off the bone and flaked a little. Return the lamb meat to the pot, along with the tomato puree, flour mixture and lemon juice. Season the soup with salt (because of the lemon juice this soup may need more salt than one would expect). Continue to cook for 10 minutes, or until the pulses are soft. Take off the heat, and stir in the butter and the remaining coriander. Serve with a wedge of lemon and, if you're feeling exotic, sweet dates at the side.



Friday, December 17, 2010

Lamb, Gratin and a Stinky Cheese

Our Favorite Cabbage Salad


The Best Gratin Ever!

A Delicious Plate!

Stinky Epoisse Cheese: 5 Yes Votes, 1 No Vote

Darryl: The Baker
The Apple Cake




We decided to cook a big dinner for Barbara. There were many great wines drunk at this dinner, check the photo!

We started out with a our favorite Cabbage Salad it is from The Cuisine of California Cookbook and is a Sauteed Red Cabbage Salad With Pancetta And Broiled - Goat Cheese. I really like this salad. We purchased delicious goat cheese and the required pancetta at The Cheese Store of Silverlake.

For the main course we made a fantastic Smoked Leg of Lamb that we purchased at McCall’s Meat and Fish. This is a fun and dramatic recipe to make. First you need a lot of Rosemary. Luckily we have a backyard filled with it, so I went harvesting. After the lamb is browned and cooked in the oven the roasting pan is taken outside and the rosemary is ignited. It produces a LOT of smoke. The roasting pan is then covered and the Smokey flavor infuses the meat. It is quite dramatic to make! The recipe is from Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton at Home.

Be sure to watch the movie by clicking the clip below.



There is NO question in our mind that the Absolute Best Gratin ever is from a recipe from the Sunday Suppers at Lucques Cookbook called: Potato – Bacon Gratin. Bacon is my FAVORITE Seasoning. The recipe can be found in our blog of July, 8, 2008. Click the date to get the recipe.

I continued to experiment baking bread. I modified the recipe to contain 16% whole wheat. It was a good enhancement to the recipe and I will continue to play with the recipe. Robert and Darryl brought a very stinky Epoisse Cheese that went well with the bread.

Darryl brought an Olive Oil Cake that was delicious.
With all of the wine none of us suffered the next morning! We drank lots of water, which helps.

Sauteed Red Cabbage Salad With Pancetta And Broiled - Goat Cheese
The Cuisine of California
Diane Rossen Worthington

Serves 4

This is a delicious variation on warm spinach salad that uses year-round red cabbage to advantage with crispy pancetta and goat cheese. The goat cheese is lightly breaded and then broiled just enough to melt, and to lightly toast the breadcrumbs for added crunch. I like to serve it as a main course for lunch with warm sourdough bread or as a first course with Lemon-Herb Chicken and steamed zucchini and carrots.

RECOMMENDED CALIFORNIA WINES: This can be served equally well with white or red wine. A big Napa or Sonoma Chardonnay melds the goat cheese and sherry vinegar flavors; the goat cheese will reduce the seemingly exces­sive tannin of a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon.

½     pound pancetta, sliced 6 ounces Sonoma goat cheese or French goat cheese
½     cup olive oil
2     tablespoons French bread or whole wheat breadcrumbs
1     small red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced or shredded
2     large shallots, finely chopped
3     tablespoons sherry vinegar
¼     teaspoon salt
1/8     teaspoon coarsely cracked pepper

1.   In medium skillet cook pancetta over medium-low heat until crisp and lightly browned. Remove and place on paper towels to drain. Grumble into small pieces and reserve.

2.   Slice goat cheese into 4 equal portions. Place on broiler pan and brush each piece with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs so that they adhere to the cheese. Refrigerate for 1 hour.

3.   Remove all but 1 tablespoon of pancetta drippings and add 3 tablespoons olive oil to skillet. Add cabbage and sauté until it begins to wilt. Remove to a bowl.

4.   Add remaining 1/4 cup olive-oil to pan. Add shallots and sauté until soft. Add sherry vinegar and boil about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and pour over cabbage. Add pancetta and mix well.

5.   Preheat broiler if necessary. Broil coated goat cheese just until it is golden brown. Watch carefully, as it burns easily.


6.   Place cabbage mixture on 4 individual plates and set goat cheese in center. Serve immediately.

Advance Preparation: May be prepared up to 4 hours ahead through Step 4. Serve at room temperature. Cheese may be breaded up to 6 hours ahead and refrigerated.

Leg of Lamb, the Best (Rosemary)
Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton at Home

This recipe calk for a bundle, a heap, an enormous bouquet of that ever-traditional serve-with-lamb herb, rosemary. Even if the rosemary didn't impart a wonderful flavor to the meat, the intoxicating aroma coming from the oven would be reason enough to use it in this quantity.

Have the butcher remove the small bone from the leg of lamb to make slicing it easier.

One 4 1/2-pound leg of lamb
3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Olive oil
Coarse salt
Coarsely ground black pepper
6 ounces rosemary sprigs (8 bunches)

Trim off any excess fat from the meat, leaving a thin layer. Make 1-inch slits all over the meat and insert the garlic slices. Rub the lamb well with olive oil and coat heavily with salt and pepper. Wrap securely with plastic wrap and set aside for several hours, or refrigerate over night.

Preheat the oven to 500° F.

Heat an ovenproof skillet or heavy pan large enough for the lamb to fit in comfortably and brown it on all sides. Remove the lamb to a platter and pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat. Cover the bottom of pan with a bed of rosemary and place the lamb on top. Cover the lamb with more rosemary.


Place in the oven. After 20 minutes turn the heat down to 375° F. Roast for another 40 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven. Internal temperature of lamb should be between 125 and 130 degrees.

When ready to serve, take outside, carefully ignite the rosemary on top of the lamb, and allow to burn itself out. Make sure you have a tight-fitting lid handy to extinguish the flames. Brush off the woody stems. The charred rosemary imparts even more flavor to the lamb. Let it rest 10 to 15 minutes and transfer to a serving platter.

    

Serves 6 to 8     *

Note: If fresh rosemary is unavailable, soak 3 ounces of dried rosemary in water to cover for 30 minutes. Drain. Pat wet rosemary on the lamb before placing it in the oven. Do not attempt to flame it.





Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Barbara with Panache and Panade





Barbara arrived from San Francisco. It is miserable in Los Angeles: lots of rain. Surprisingly the rain isn’t that cold, but it ruins any attempt to walk and do outdoor activities.

I continued to bake bread and we had a wonderful stinky epoisse cheese with the fresh bake bread. Most of the guests loved it.This time I modified the recipe and had 16% whole wheat flour and 84% bread flour. You can find the recipe for the No Knead Bread in my post of Dec 11, 2010. Click the date to get the recipe.


We invited Robert, Darryl, Kevin and Billy over.

One of Barbara’s favorite restaurants in San Francisco is Tartine and we made a Panade from a recipe from Tartine. We have previously made it and knew Barbara would love it.
It is baked vegetables, bread, cheese and cream. It is very rich and good.

We started with a Mushroom Soup from the The Food of Campanile Cookbook by Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton. The soup is very rich with lots of mushrooms. We used had created a Turkey Stock from our left over Smoked Turkey and used it as a base for the soup.

We had Brownies and Chocolate Chip Cookies for dessert.

Faro and Mushroom Soup
The Food of Campanile
Mark Peel & Nancy Silverton

Serves   10 to 12

This is a wonderful, earthy soup for colder days. Also known as spelt, farro is one of the earliest domesticated strains of wheat. It tastes similar to barley, and in this soup it adds a wholesome, toothy quality. This is delicious topped with Garlic Bread Crumbs. To serve 10 to 12, the bread crumb recipe must be doubled.

If you can't find farro, pearl barley or wheat berries can be substituted, but these must be cooked at least 30 minutes longer. For a com­pletely vegetarian soup, the ham hock or bacon can be eliminated and Vegetable Stock substituted for Chicken Stock.

¾  pound fresh shiitake mushrooms
12  ounces fresh crimini mushrooms
Vegetable oil
1  medium carrot, peeled and cut into thick slices (3/4cup)
1  medium leek, trimmed, split, and cut into thick slices (1 cup)
1  medium celery stalk, peeled and cut into thick slices (1/2 cup)
5  large garlic cloves, peeled and minced (5 teaspoons)
½  cup dry sherry
1 small ham hock, or 4-ounce slab of bacon
12  cups Chicken Stock
Bouquet garni (1 sprig rosemary, 1 sprig marjoram, 2 sprigs Italian parsley, and 1 bay leaf)
¼  cup dried porcini mushrooms
Kosher salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
½  cup faro
1  bunch fresh chives

Have   ready

The Chicken Stock, warm, in a medium saucepan over low heat The Garlic Bread Crumbs (optional)

Wipe the shiitakes clean with a damp towel. Remove and reserve the stems from the shiitakes. Cut each shiitake cap into thin slices and reserve. Quickly rinse the crimini mushrooms and dry them thoroughly. Remove and reserve the stems from the crimini mushrooms. Cut each crimini cap into quarters and reserve.

In a large stockpot, over medium heat, pre­heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil. Sweat the mushroom stems, carrot, leek, celery, and garlic until wilted and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the sherry. Add the ham hock or bacon, Chicken Stock, and bouquet garni, and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer, skimming as necessary to remove any foam that rises to the surface, until the stock has good color and a strong mush­room flavor, about 1 hour.
While the broth is simmering, in a small mixing bowl, combine the dried porcini mush­rooms with 1/2i cup of warm water. Allow about 30 minutes for the mushrooms to reconstitute :  adequately.

In a large sauté pan, over medium-high heat, preheat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil just to smoking. Sauté the sliced shiitake caps with­out stirring until almost charred, about 1 to 2 minutes. Continue to sauté, stirring to brown evenly, about 3 more minutes, adding a little more oil as necessary. As the shiitakes brown, season them lightly with kosher salt and black pepper. Remove the pan from the heat, remove the shiitake mushrooms, and reserve them in a small mixing bowl.

Remove the reconstituted porcini mushrooms from the soaking water, gently squeezing them to remove excess water. Reserve the soaking water. Wipe the sauté pan clean with a clean paper towel, reduce the heat to medium, and preheat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Sauté the I quartered crimini caps and the reconstituted porcini mushrooms until lightly browned, I about 3 to 4 minutes, seasoning with kosher salt and black pepper and adding more oil as necessary. Remove the pan from the heat, remove the crimini mushrooms, and reserve them in the small mixing bowl with the shiitakes.

After the soup has simmered for about 1 hour, using a fine-mesh, stainless-steel strainer, strain the soup, pressing the vegetables to remove as much liquid as possible. Remove and discard the vegetables. Pick out the ham hock, allow it to cool, and shred the meat, dis­carding the skin and bone. (If you're using bacon, chop it coarsely.) Return the broth and the ham or bacon to the large stockpot, and bring back to a simmer.

Add the farro to the stockpot. Add the porcini soaking water, taking care not to pour into the stockpot any of the grit from the porcinis that will have collected on the bottom of the bowl. (Dried porcini come with a fine sand that somehow goes through several layers of cheese­cloth, but it's heavy, so it stays at the bottom of the bowl if you pour carefully.) Continue to simmer, over medium heat, until the farro is tender, about 15 minutes. Add the reserved sauteed shiitake and crimini mushrooms, and continue to simmer about 15 minutes.

Mince the chives as needed for garnish.

Spoon the soup into large, warm bowls. Top with Garlic Bread Crumbs, if desired, and chopped chives. Serve immediately.

September 8, 2010
New York Times

Panade
6 tablespoons butter
2 leeks, white parts only, finely chopped (about 1½ cups)
6 cups whole milk
Salt
4-6 slices day-old country bread, each 1 inch thick
1 small butternut squash (about 1 pound), peeled, seeded and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
1 bunch black kale or Swiss chard, center stems removed
1 head cauliflower (about 1½ pounds), trimmed and cut into ½-inch-thick slices
½ pound fontina cheese, thinly sliced
Heavy cream, optional.
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the milk, the remaining 4 tablespoons butter and 2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a boil and then remove from the heat.
2. Cover the bottom of a heavy, ovenproof 5-quart pot with 2 or more slices of the bread. Arrange the squash slices in an even layer on top of the bread and pour in 2 cups of the hot milk mixture. Top with 2 or 3 slices of bread and then with the kale. Arrange the cauliflower slices over the kale. Press down on the ingredients to compact them if they don’t quite fit into the pot.
3. Pour the remaining milk mixture over the top. Stop adding the milk when the level is almost to the rim. Season with salt. Cover the pot with a lid or aluminum foil. Bake for 30 minutes. Uncover and arrange the cheese over the top. Return to the oven uncovered and bake until the liquid is absorbed and reduced and the cheese has melted and browned, 30 to 40 minutes. (When the panade has cooled, it should appear dry.) Serve immediately or let cool and refrigerate for up to 3 days. To reheat, cut the panade into wedges and put on individual ovenproof plates. Pour ¼ cup cream over the top of each wedge and bake for 15 to 20 minutes in an oven preheated to 375. Serves 6. Adapted from “Tartine Bread,” by Chad Robertson.